After racking up a little over 192K miles (51K miles in the past 4 years) on the original engine and tranny, my 4A-GE just didn't feel as healthy as before. Plus, I don't think that the previous owner took good care of the engine. I was seriously hoping that I'd reach at least 200K miles before I had to rebuild the motor.
On 12/11/98, after my last final, I parked my car in the garage where it won't budge until the whole rebuild process is done. I already ordered the major parts from CAP 2 weeks before so that I would have time to get the right parts if they were wrong. Unfortunately, CAP was in the middle of moving its business location (a bigger warehouse for more parts stock), so it was a bit hard for 'em to juggle customers' orders and keeping the inventory straight during the move. I was told that my parts were shipped on 12/9/98. I especially needed the pistons so that the machine shop could check the piston-to-cylinder bore clearances correctly.
ARP head stud kit
ARP main bearing cap stud kit
ARP con rod bearing cap bolt kit
Federal-Mogul valve keepers
Federal-Mogul valve springs
Federal-Mogul timing belt tensioner
Federal-Mogul 0.010" U/S main bearings
Federal-Mogul main journal thrust washers
Federal-Mogul 0.010" U/S con rod bearings
Toyota 0.020" O/S pistons
Toyota 2nd gen. oil pump (P/N 15100-19036)
Total Seal 0.020" O/S piston rings (part # "0816", TSS-type)
Toyota rebuild gasket kit, belts, CV joint boots, clutch slave cylinder, and other misc. parts
As you can see, the engine's internals are mostly stock, non hi-po parts. The only non-stock items are the ARP kits and the Total Seal rings, which I got just for "peace of mind." The point of this rebuild was just that--a rebuild. I didn't want to spend any more money on this project than I had to. The real money will be going into my 20v 4A-GE (or 4A-GZE) project later on when I really want more power.
Machine Work for Block:
Check block for strength and integrity
Cylinder bore 0.020" over and hone
Main crank journals line-bored for trueness/straightness
Install new freeze plugs
Machine Work for Head:
Tear down, clean, and pressure test
Install old intake valves and new exhaust valves
3-angle valve job
Valve seats cut
Block-to-head mating surface resurfaced 0.010"
Other Machine Work:
Crank grind 0.010" U/S
Complete reciprocating and rotating assembly balance
(crank pulley, crank, con rod/piston assemblies, flywheel, pressure plate)
Con rods checked and reconditioned
Keiichi Tsuchiya AE86
Full body disassembly, est. 3500 spot welds and crack repairs, brace reinforcements added at 22 locations, full 9 step repainting process in Toyota Super White II exterior/interior, GT500 Supra engine bay gray. Body rigidity matches that of the DC5 Honda Integra.
Sitsuwa Model Dry Carbon Fiber tank lid, mirror shell.
TRD FRP Hatch-lid with integrated TRD Spoiler (N2)
TRD Carbon Hood
TRD Reclining Bucket Seats
Fully reupholstered TRD interior fabric
MZ20 Rotor/Caliper on TRD custom brackets, Earl's Lines
TRD Short Stroke dampers
9kg/mm F, 8kg/mm R Springs
TRD 2 Way LSD
TRUST/EARL's 13 Row Oil Cooler
4.778 TRD Final with 1-3 Close Ratio Box
Guages from Trust and Integral Metering
TRD Full bearing upper mount, tension rod, lower arm, lateral and 4 links (one-off custom TRD in house)
Modex SSR Dori-Dori Mesh 15x7 +2 offset / 10-15mm spacer
Image/Kei-Office C-2 original brake pads
Yokohama Advan Neova 195/50-15 (replaced with 048R in track)
His AE86 Trueno features TRD short shoft kit with leather wrapped round knob (standard TRD issue) and TRD by NARDI steering wheel. Since it's a 1986 AE86, his car has kouki(late model) front and rear bumpers and taillights, with aftermarket smoke-clear turn signal lense. Also attched to the front bumper is specially fitted zenki (early model) lip extension that is mounted by using titanium zeus fasters and custom aluminum brackets, and is replaced with a new lip every track event after minor scrapes.
TRD wing is built-in on the entire hatch made of fiberglass.
Other cosmetic items of note are ARTA floor mats, Kenwood CD deck, Raybrig MR headlight light housings. The dry-carbon side mirror housings are specially made for him, weighs 45% of the OEM plastic units and cost $850 each side...wow...and his fuel lid is also of dry-carbon down to the hinge and cost $350.
AE111 4A-GE 5 Valve (20V)
DLI Ignition with Freeedom ECU
Toda 272in/288ex 20V Camshaft (lift 9.8mm)
Toda 82mm Piston (11.3 Compression)
20V OEM Injectors 295cc
TRD Custom exhaust system
Aluminum 3 row radiator
Approximately 175bhp at flywheel
Theme of the project:
To build the AE86 for the next 10 years. (since 1998)
Neverending upgrades to provide the 10 years with satisfying driving experience and training for racing.
Favorite aspect of the car:
A car that will punish driving errors but rewards skillful execution.
A car that will be street oriented and comfortable in daily use.
A car that reminds (Keiichi) of past era of AE86 Gr.A racing
Project Leader: Sakurai of TRD (formerly chief of AE86 N2 Series construction)
There are many different ways to drift a car, including: (NOTE: ABS and TCS should be turned off before attempting to drift. These systems are not made to take into account a driver wanting the car to slide).
Braking drift - This drift is performed by trail braking into a corner so that the car can "set" or shift weight to cause the rear wheels to lose traction, then controlling the drift with proper steering and gas inputs. Having brake bias can be beneficial to the drift depending on the driving style. Usually having bias on rear brakes helps to brake drift.
Power Over Drift - This drift performed when entering a corner at full throttle to produce heavy oversteer through the turn. It is the most typical drifting technique for AWD cars (predominantly RWD). Keiichi Tsuchiya has been regarded as saying he used this technique when he was too scared to drift at certain corners when he was younger. However the chance of this technique leading to a burn-out instead of a drift is possible if executed at a bad angle.
Inertia (Feint) Drift - This is done by rocking the car towards the outside of a turn and then using the inertia of the car to swing it back to the desired drifting line. By going away from the corner, and turning back in hard, you are coming from a much sharper angle. Somtimes the brake will be applied while rocking the car towards the outside to give a better weight transfer; hence creating an even sharper turn. It has been said by many pro-drifters that this is one of the hardest techniques to master as has a high spin-out factor.
Lift Off - At very high speeds, by letting your foot off of the accelerator while cornering, certain cars with very neutral handling, such as the MX-5 or S14, will begin to slide, simply from the drop in torque and engine braking. The drift is controlled afterwards by steering inputs from the driver and light pedal work.
Handbrake/ebrake Drift - This technique is pretty straightforward; pull the handbrake to induce rear traction loss and balance drift through steering and throttle play. Some people debate the fact that if using the handbrake creates an actual drift, or just a power slide, but ultimately, using the e-brake is no different than any other technique for starting drifts. This is generally the main technique to perform a controlled drift in a FWD vehicle. This is one the first techniques beginners will use as their cars are not powerful enough to lose traction using other techniques. Also this technique is used heavily in drift competitions to drift big corners.
Dirt Drop Drift - This is done by dropping the rear tires off the road into the dirt to maintain or gain drift angle without losing power or speed and to set up for the next turn. Only permissible on roads without barriers and lined with dirt or other materials which to lose traction. This is commonly done in WRC rallying.
Clutch Kick - This is done by "kicking" the clutch (pushing in, then out, usually more than one time in a drift for adjustment in a very fast manner) to send a shock through the powertrain, upsetting the car's balance. It causes the rear wheels to slip and enables the driver to induce oversteer.
Choku Dori - This is mainly used after long straightaways to slow the car down and to perform a stunning, high-angled, long drift. The car is thrown into a feint and is swung back the other way at very high speeds, while the driver uses the ebrake to maintain the car's line and to extend the drift.
Manji - This is done on straightaways, when the driver swings the car from side to side across the track. It is mainly used in choreographed drifting such as in events like Big X. Many techniques can be used to initiate this, such as clutch kick and feint.
Changing Side Swing - This technique is used extensively in the Japanese D1 competition and is very similar to inertia (Feint) drift. It is often done on the first entry drift corner, which is often a long double apex turn just before a very fast straight-way. If the straight-way before that double apex is of a downhill orientation, the driver keeps driving on side of the track that is closetest to the corner. Then with correct timing in mind, the driver abruptly changes the car onto the other side. This movement has the car momentum to be altered causing the rear wheels to lose traction. The car is in a drift motion right now. Then the drift is carried over into the corner and through it.
Dynamic Drift - This technique is similar to the Choku Dori. It employs all forms of the above techniques - and not restricted to only one - in combinations to accomplish the desired drift movement.
Nice write up!! keep it coming
guess i get to have alucard now...