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I have a problem with my car... If you know anything about cars please help!!
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Posted 4/16/08 , edited 4/16/08

pandam0nk19 wrote:

u have bad tuning thats why
wat managment system are u using
you cant get the rite air to fuel ratio becasue of ur tuning
u need to get it professionally tuned


I know how to tune, I tune my own cars.. Look at my above post and go to page 2 post 2 and 7. I built this car from the ground up I know its issues. If I just retuned it guess what happens? It will still run shitty. Tuning will only mask the problem not fix it.


Why is it that nobody reads through all the post first before they post?..It just makes them look like an idiot when they dont as everything is already discussed. It really beats me..
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Posted 4/16/08
-consider cleaning the fuel tank and the fuel line and the filter (change fuel filter) and fuel pump also check for fuel pump if it is in good condition
-check the high tension wires for leaks and consider changing and check the distributor for correct firing order and change spark plugs into new ones and consider the adjustment timing ( advance or delay) also check the coil and other related electric things
-recheck the correct placement of timing chain
-check for chargers functionality (intake) and counter check nuts and bolts
-adjust air and fuel mixture
-check the clutch lining and pressure plate and consider changing and check clutch fluid and master and hydro and consider changing to new one
-change the shift kit.. an old car may have problems on correct alignment of shift stick to gears

maybe that will do it

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25 / F / Nebraska
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Posted 4/16/08 , edited 4/16/08

chinky_sonny wrote:

-consider cleaning the fuel tank and the fuel line and the filter (change fuel filter) and fuel pump also check for fuel pump if it is in good condition
-check the high tension wires for leaks and consider changing and check the distributor for correct firing order and change spark plugs into new ones and consider the adjustment timing ( advance or delay) also check the coil and other related electric things
-recheck the correct placement of timing chain
-check for chargers functionality (intake) and counter check nuts and bolts
-adjust air and fuel mixture
-check the clutch lining and pressure plate and consider changing and check clutch fluid and master and hydro and consider changing to new one
-change the shift kit.. an old car may have problems on correct alignment of shift stick to gears

maybe that will do it



Faulty fuel pump and fuel filter will not cause a rich condition, nor will restrictions in the line. The only thing that has an effect on a car running rich as far as fuel systems go is the fuel injectors, and even then...only leaking fuel injectors will cause a problem.

Leaks and bad timing will cause misfires, not rich condition. Well I think...OBD1 didn't have misfire detection, so I don't know how misfires were corrected...with OBD2 and the use of knock sensors, timing should be taken care of by the PCM.

Air/fuel mixture is adjusted at the PCM with engine load, intake air temp and among other factors, mathematically formulated into attaining stoichiometric ratio.

I understand why everyone is saying its an air/fuel ratio problem...but the question is WHY is it an air/fuel ratio problem?
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27 / M / Oklahoma
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Posted 4/16/08

pookie052606 wrote:


chinky_sonny wrote:

-consider cleaning the fuel tank and the fuel line and the filter (change fuel filter) and fuel pump also check for fuel pump if it is in good condition
-check the high tension wires for leaks and consider changing and check the distributor for correct firing order and change spark plugs into new ones and consider the adjustment timing ( advance or delay) also check the coil and other related electric things
-recheck the correct placement of timing chain
-check for chargers functionality (intake) and counter check nuts and bolts
-adjust air and fuel mixture
-check the clutch lining and pressure plate and consider changing and check clutch fluid and master and hydro and consider changing to new one
-change the shift kit.. an old car may have problems on correct alignment of shift stick to gears

maybe that will do it



Faulty fuel pump and fuel filter will not cause a rich condition, nor will restrictions in the line. The only thing that has an effect on a car running rich as far as fuel systems go is the fuel injectors, and even then...only leaking fuel injectors will cause a problem.

Leaks and bad timing will cause misfires, not rich condition. Well I think...OBD1 didn't have misfire detection, so I don't know how misfires were corrected...with OBD2 and the use of knock sensors, timing should be taken care of by the PCM.

Air/fuel mixture is adjusted at the PCM with engine load, intake air temp and among other factors, mathematically formulated into attaining stoichiometric ratio.

I understand why everyone is saying its an air/fuel ratio problem...but the question is WHY is it an air/fuel ratio problem?


How you find misfires without a set DTC is actually very simple. Temperature gun. You point at the exhaust manifold. If there is a cylinder misfire, it will be colder than the rest of the cylinders.
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25 / F / Nebraska
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Posted 4/16/08

revolutionofone wrote:


pookie052606 wrote:


chinky_sonny wrote:

-consider cleaning the fuel tank and the fuel line and the filter (change fuel filter) and fuel pump also check for fuel pump if it is in good condition
-check the high tension wires for leaks and consider changing and check the distributor for correct firing order and change spark plugs into new ones and consider the adjustment timing ( advance or delay) also check the coil and other related electric things
-recheck the correct placement of timing chain
-check for chargers functionality (intake) and counter check nuts and bolts
-adjust air and fuel mixture
-check the clutch lining and pressure plate and consider changing and check clutch fluid and master and hydro and consider changing to new one
-change the shift kit.. an old car may have problems on correct alignment of shift stick to gears

maybe that will do it



Faulty fuel pump and fuel filter will not cause a rich condition, nor will restrictions in the line. The only thing that has an effect on a car running rich as far as fuel systems go is the fuel injectors, and even then...only leaking fuel injectors will cause a problem.

Leaks and bad timing will cause misfires, not rich condition. Well I think...OBD1 didn't have misfire detection, so I don't know how misfires were corrected...with OBD2 and the use of knock sensors, timing should be taken care of by the PCM.

Air/fuel mixture is adjusted at the PCM with engine load, intake air temp and among other factors, mathematically formulated into attaining stoichiometric ratio.

I understand why everyone is saying its an air/fuel ratio problem...but the question is WHY is it an air/fuel ratio problem?


How you find misfires without a set DTC is actually very simple. Temperature gun. You point at the exhaust manifold. If there is a cylinder misfire, it will be colder than the rest of the cylinders.


Aha I didn't know that.
But what I was wondering was like, on OBD1 vehicles, did the PCM try to correct for a misfire itself?
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25 / M / Canada
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Posted 4/16/08
This is off topic, but this is probably the only thread that seems to make sense in this section.
Posted 4/17/08
maybe your fuel pump might be going out for one...or u have a blown turbo if the car is being lazy. idk i have too see the car first to make better since of the problem...
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Posted 4/17/08 , edited 4/17/08

pookie052606 wrote:

Aha I didn't know that.
But what I was wondering was like, on OBD1 vehicles, did the PCM try to correct for a misfire itself?


OB1 vehicles dont try to correct for the misfire itself and so doesn't a lot of OBD2. Though you dont need a temperture gauge to tell if a car is misfiring you can. An easier way to diagnose which cylinder is misfiring is by pulling wires while the car is running. No need for a thermometer. If you pull a wire with a healthly spark you will hear the power loss but if you pull the wire from the misfiring cylinder the car will sound the same or similar with no distinctive change.


TheTravelingSword wrote:

This is off topic, but this is probably the only thread that seems to make sense in this section.


Yea I felt that since this is a car forum maybe we should have some real topics about cars. Not "which is the best" or "what do you like better."


240sx-mayn wrote:

maybe your fuel pump might be going out for one...or u have a blown turbo if the car is being lazy. idk i have too see the car first to make better since of the problem...


There is nothing wrong with my car. This is all a game to test peoples diagnostic skills. I just edited my first post so everybody knows now. Well anyways. A faulty fuel pump does not lead to rich conditions so that is totally ruled out. And a blown turbo is also ruled out. A blow turbo will not boost or will slowly decline. When this is happening you can hear the fins scraping against the compressor housing and also a blown turbo or one thats about to go out usually smoke also as the blown oil seals usually go hand and hand with a blown turbo. If you want to know that the answer was go to page 2 post 7.

Anyways, we are in need of another problem. Mines was already solved and Pookie presented one that is already solve also. Anybody having problems with their cars? Or if you dont have a problem you can share a previous problem or completely make one up. If your making one up please dont be idiotic and make it within reason.
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27 / M / Oklahoma
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Posted 4/17/08
07 Grand Marquis, power on when key on, loses power when cranking. Battery reads 12 volts.

My teacher did this to me, it's clever.
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Posted 4/17/08

revolutionofone wrote:

07 Grand Marquis, power on when key on, loses power when cranking. Battery reads 12 volts.

My teacher did this to me, it's clever.


Loose battery terminals will do that
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25 / M / Canada
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Posted 4/17/08
Alright, I have ae a problem, it's pretty easy to solve, so here it goes.

think it was 06 or 07... don't remember Buick LaCrosse. After doing a fluids check, changing the oil and coolant, and then checking the tires for maintenance. After all it's little check ups were completed, we were about to kick it out and get another car in. For some reason, the car wouldn't start. So we scrambled around, checking everything we could possibly could. Nothing was wrong. Car still didn't start.

we found the problem... which I ain't gonna tell... and fixed it... a very very stupid, pain in the ass problem.
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Posted 4/17/08 , edited 4/17/08

lasthope05 wrote:


revolutionofone wrote:

07 Grand Marquis, power on when key on, loses power when cranking. Battery reads 12 volts.

My teacher did this to me, it's clever.


Loose battery terminals will do that


But they're not loose. :)

It's not a real world problem unless someone is being a dick.


About the Lacross, inertia switch?
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25 / F / Nebraska
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Posted 4/17/08

TheTravelingSword wrote:

Alright, I have ae a problem, it's pretty easy to solve, so here it goes.

think it was 06 or 07... don't remember Buick LaCrosse. After doing a fluids check, changing the oil and coolant, and then checking the tires for maintenance. After all it's little check ups were completed, we were about to kick it out and get another car in. For some reason, the car wouldn't start. So we scrambled around, checking everything we could possibly could. Nothing was wrong. Car still didn't start.

we found the problem... which I ain't gonna tell... and fixed it... a very very stupid, pain in the ass problem.


Is it a crank but no start condition?
Or is it a no crank at all?
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25 / F / Nebraska
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Posted 4/17/08

revolutionofone wrote:


lasthope05 wrote:


revolutionofone wrote:

07 Grand Marquis, power on when key on, loses power when cranking. Battery reads 12 volts.

My teacher did this to me, it's clever.


Loose battery terminals will do that


But they're not loose. :)

It's not a real world problem unless someone is being a dick.


About the Lacross, inertia switch?


I think Ford is the only company that implements the use of an inertia switch.
Posted 4/17/08
maybe u have s bad alternator, if not the stater could be it, dose it make wired nosies when trying to start. or it wont turn over?? isn't the inertia switch is a safety switch?
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