First  Prev  1  2  3  4  Next  Last
Detailing and Car Care
26820 cr points
Send Message: Send PM GB Post
27 / M / Chicago
Offline
Posted 4/29/08 , edited 5/4/08
Damn, that's like a 6 hours job right there. Thank God summer is coming or else I would die. I really need to take some swirls out though! They only thing that pisses me off the most is the drying part. That is why I'm buying the Air wand.

You can hose the engine bay? Wouldn't it hurt any of the electronics?
209 cr points
Send Message: Send PM GB Post
28 / M / Vancouver
Offline
Posted 4/29/08


The PC 7424 is pretty highly rated amongst many detailing enthusiasts, so I'm not quite sure why you'd say it's crap. A rotary would be nice of course, but for someone who's completely new to polishers, many people recommend using a good random orbital polisher such as the 7424 as a rotary requires much more skill to operate, and when a powerful rotary polisher is placed into the hands of an unexperienced person, it is much more likely that the paint will end up getting damaged instead. Polishers here in Canada are quite expensive, with a Makita rotary polisher being priced at around $250-300 whereas the PC 7424 can be found typically for less than $200.

The paint on my current vehicle is rather oxidized as it's been sitting outside in the sun for practically all it's life and the exterior wasn't maintained very well at all. Any tips in restoring it back to life? I know I definitely need to use a good abrasive compound and work from there, and it definitely needs a claybar as well. I've been considering wetsanding down most of the oxidation as per this (http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3722201) tutorial as my paint somewhat is in similar condition (though not to that extreme). Would I need to claybar it then? Wouldn't the wetsand remove all the crap in the paint.. ?
1108 cr points
Send Message: Send PM GB Post
M
Offline
Posted 4/30/08 , edited 4/30/08
Yea the reason I said the PC sucks is because I am already skilled with a rotary and going to a PC from a rotary is like going backwards. For your oxidized paint i wouldnt bother with the clay. It wouldnt do much of anything. First thing to do is get a paint cleaner such as (Klasse AlI-in-One/Optimum poli-seal/4* ultimate paint cleanser.) The cleaner will remove all the dead paint on top that would otherwise clog your pads if you just went straight to a heavy compound. Next is the compounding. Any type of compound will work. Some nice choices are XMT #3 or #4, Optimum compound, 3m extra cut, Menzerna Powergloss or SIP. After compounding your can finish off with a nice polish to remove the marring left by the compound and your good to go. The foam pad of choice i would use is either a green or orange lake country pad. Dont go any higher. The most aggressive is not always the best choice. A rule of thumb with detailing is use the least aggressive pad and polish/compound because you are removing clear coat. IF the clear coat becomes too thin it will no longer have any UV protection properties and your clear coat will fail. So you only want to remove the damaged layer and try not to go below that. It might take several passes so dont just assume that after one pass its not working right. Just remember to break the compound down properly to reduce marring/hazing.

That the link you showed me he should of used the KAIO first to remove the oxidation. The wet sanding is unnecessary step as the KAIO would remove the dead paint. Wet sanding is for scratch removal and orange peal removal(if its a been resprayed) you never want to wetsand orange peal from factory clear as it is already thin and not meant to be removed or corrected in the future. And since the paint is a single stage a glaze would of been more than enough to nourish the paint and bring it back to life.
2834 cr points
Send Message: Send PM GB Post
43 / M / mati, davao oriental
Offline
Posted 5/1/08
wash it every week and wax it every 3 weeks
29460 cr points
Send Message: Send PM GB Post
30 / M / Cali
Offline
Posted 5/1/08

pookie052606 wrote:

I try to wash it whenever I can...which is to say it isn't a lot.
So I'll wax my car whenever I wash it.
I use primarily Black Magic products.


What car would that be Nebraska-dude?? Can I see some pics?? Must be nice..

1491 cr points
Send Message: Send PM GB Post
24 / F / Nebraska
Offline
Posted 5/1/08

jeetkundo wrote:


pookie052606 wrote:

I try to wash it whenever I can...which is to say it isn't a lot.
So I'll wax my car whenever I wash it.
I use primarily Black Magic products.


What car would that be Nebraska-dude?? Can I see some pics?? Must be nice..



A 97 Mazda 626.
Nice? No.
29460 cr points
Send Message: Send PM GB Post
30 / M / Cali
Offline
Posted 5/2/08

pookie052606 wrote:


jeetkundo wrote:


pookie052606 wrote:

I try to wash it whenever I can...which is to say it isn't a lot.
So I'll wax my car whenever I wash it.
I use primarily Black Magic products.


What car would that be Nebraska-dude?? Can I see some pics?? Must be nice..



A 97 Mazda 626.
Nice? No.


It's kewl, it's yours ne? As long as u take care of it...mine's an old beater...Ford Mustang hatchback...someday I want it to be like this...



26820 cr points
Send Message: Send PM GB Post
27 / M / Chicago
Offline
Posted 5/2/08 , edited 5/2/08
All right, this is what I'm getting for a complete detail next week.

$14.99 Pre-Wash - 32oz Poorboy's World Bug Wash
$19.99 Wash - 32oz Menzerna Auto Shampoo
$23.74 Clay - Clay Magic Fine Grade Clay 200g
$13.99 Lubricant - Poorboy's World Spray & Wipe
$25.99 Polish - 32oz Menzerna FPII
$39.99 Sealant - 16oz Menzerna FMJ
$17.99 Wax - Natty's Blue Paste Wax
$199.99 PC 7424 Starter Kit

That is about $375 + another $100 for the airwand.

Am I missing something? Do I really need a glaze? What about wheels? MetalWax?



1108 cr points
Send Message: Send PM GB Post
M
Offline
Posted 5/2/08

aznrice2k4 wrote:

All right, this is what I'm getting for a complete detail next week.

$14.99 Pre-Wash - 32oz Poorboy's World Bug Wash
$19.99 Wash - 32oz Menzerna Auto Shampoo
$23.74 Clay - Clay Magic Fine Grade Clay 200g
$13.99 Lubricant - Poorboy's World Spray & Wipe
$25.99 Polish - 32oz Menzerna FPII
$39.99 Sealant - 16oz Menzerna FMJ
$17.99 Wax - Natty's Blue Paste Wax
$199.99 PC 7424 Starter Kit

That is about $375 + another $100 for the airwand.

Am I missing something? Do I really need a glaze? What about wheels? MetalWax?





Here is what i would change on there. You dont need a glaze unless you want that unnatural show car glow and for the wheels you can just use the Duragloss #105 sealant on there. Dont think that because duragloss is cheap it must be crap. Its a tried and true product and is similar if not the same as the zainos products. Its all up to you on what you really want to use. For Menzerna the only things good from them are their SIP, IP, 106ff, finishing glaze and power gloss. There other stuff should be good too but alot of people just stick to these.

$14.99 Pre-Wash - 32oz Poorboy's World Bug Wash
$11.99 Wash - Meguiars gold class shampoo
$23.74 Clay - Clay Magic Fine Grade Clay 200g
$13.99 Lubricant - Poorboy's World Spray & Wipe Remove because you can just use a mixture of water and meguiars shampoo for a lube
$49.99 Polish - 32oz Menzerna 106FF
$9.99 Sealant - 16oz Duragloss TPP #105
$17.99 Wax - Natty's Blue Paste Wax
$199.99 PC 7424 Starter Kit

1491 cr points
Send Message: Send PM GB Post
24 / F / Nebraska
Offline
Posted 5/2/08

jeetkundo wrote:


pookie052606 wrote:


jeetkundo wrote:


pookie052606 wrote:

I try to wash it whenever I can...which is to say it isn't a lot.
So I'll wax my car whenever I wash it.
I use primarily Black Magic products.


What car would that be Nebraska-dude?? Can I see some pics?? Must be nice..



A 97 Mazda 626.
Nice? No.


It's kewl, it's yours ne? As long as u take care of it...mine's an old beater...Ford Mustang hatchback...someday I want it to be like this...





Is that the same year as your's?
That Mustang is clean. What year is it?
Yeah, my cars not a great car, but I still want to have it look as nice as I can and run as great as it can.
26820 cr points
Send Message: Send PM GB Post
27 / M / Chicago
Offline
Posted 5/2/08 , edited 5/2/08

lasthope05 wrote:

Here is what i would change on there. You dont need a glaze unless you want that unnatural show car glow and for the wheels you can just use the Duragloss #105 sealant on there. Dont think that because duragloss is cheap it must be crap. Its a tried and true product and is similar if not the same as the zainos products. Its all up to you on what you really want to use. For Menzerna the only things good from them are their SIP, IP, 106ff, finishing glaze and power gloss. There other stuff should be good too but alot of people just stick to these.

$14.99 Pre-Wash - 32oz Poorboy's World Bug Wash
$11.99 Wash - Meguiars gold class shampoo
$23.74 Clay - Clay Magic Fine Grade Clay 200g
$13.99 Lubricant - Poorboy's World Spray & Wipe Remove because you can just use a mixture of water and meguiars shampoo for a lube
$49.99 Polish - 32oz Menzerna 106FF
$9.99 Sealant - 16oz Duragloss TPP #105
$17.99 Wax - Natty's Blue Paste Wax
$199.99 PC 7424 Starter Kit



If I use Meg's and water for the lube, wouldn't I have to wash it again or just water the car down when I'm done? I have a lot of swirls marks, so would the 106FF take care of it? I've seen people do a initial polish with an aggressive polish then a finishing polish. Duragloss #105 is cheap as hell compared to FMJ. Should I apply the wax with hand then take it off with the orbiter?

1108 cr points
Send Message: Send PM GB Post
M
Offline
Posted 5/2/08

aznrice2k4 wrote:


lasthope05 wrote:

Here is what i would change on there. You dont need a glaze unless you want that unnatural show car glow and for the wheels you can just use the Duragloss #105 sealant on there. Dont think that because duragloss is cheap it must be crap. Its a tried and true product and is similar if not the same as the zainos products. Its all up to you on what you really want to use. For Menzerna the only things good from them are their SIP, IP, 106ff, finishing glaze and power gloss. There other stuff should be good too but alot of people just stick to these.

$14.99 Pre-Wash - 32oz Poorboy's World Bug Wash
$11.99 Wash - Meguiars gold class shampoo
$23.74 Clay - Clay Magic Fine Grade Clay 200g
$13.99 Lubricant - Poorboy's World Spray & Wipe Remove because you can just use a mixture of water and meguiars shampoo for a lube
$49.99 Polish - 32oz Menzerna 106FF
$9.99 Sealant - 16oz Duragloss TPP #105
$17.99 Wax - Natty's Blue Paste Wax
$199.99 PC 7424 Starter Kit



If I use Meg's and water for the lube, wouldn't I have to wash it again or just water the car down when I'm done? I have a lot of swirls marks, so would the 106FF take care of it? I've seen people do a initial polish with an aggressive polish then a finishing polish. Duragloss #105 is cheap as hell compared to FMJ. Should I apply the wax with hand then take it off with the orbiter?



Yea well after you clay your going to want to wash the car again anyways. Well if you have a lot of swirl marks you should use Menz SIP first than 106ff. SIP with an orange lake country pad and 106ff with a white lake country pad. It might take you a while to get a black car perfect. Black is the most unforgivable color and it shows everything. When you think you are done take it out in the sun and check for swirls. Look at it from all angles and if it looks good you can go and apply the sealant and wax. It doesnt matter how you apply and remove the wax its all preference. I tend to wax by hand and remove by hand.

Hell if menz is a little too steep you can get some Optimum polish. Thats another great polish.
152 cr points
Send Message: Send PM GB Post
29 / M
Offline
Posted 5/3/08
haha noice evo pics. got bored and viewed all of them
As for the new shoes! i don't know about the HRE's mang.
Posted 5/3/08

jeetkundo wrote:


pookie052606 wrote:


jeetkundo wrote:


pookie052606 wrote:

I try to wash it whenever I can...which is to say it isn't a lot.
So I'll wax my car whenever I wash it.
I use primarily Black Magic products.


What car would that be Nebraska-dude?? Can I see some pics?? Must be nice..



A 97 Mazda 626.
Nice? No.


It's kewl, it's yours ne? As long as u take care of it...mine's an old beater...Ford Mustang hatchback...someday I want it to be like this...





fastback** :p
26820 cr points
Send Message: Send PM GB Post
27 / M / Chicago
Offline
Posted 5/4/08 , edited 5/4/08

yaish wrote:

haha noice evo pics. got bored and viewed all of them
As for the new shoes! i don't know about the HRE's mang.


Lol, I don't have an evo but rather a CLK550.

I thought about and I'm going balls out since I'll be using my grad money and other stuff.


Interior $12.99 Aerospace Protectant - 16 oz
Pre-Wash $9.99 Bug Squash - 16 oz
Clay $23.74 Fine Grade Clay Bar - 200 g
Polish 1 $49.99 Super Intensive Polish PO83 - 32 oz
Polish 2 $26.99 PO106ff Ceramic Clear Coat Polish - 16 oz
Sealant $39.99 Full Molecular Jacket (FMJ)
Wax $17.99 Natty's Blue Paste Wax - 8 oz
Buffer $199.99 Porter Cable 7424 Starter Kit
Lub $13.99 Spray & Wipe (S&W) - 32 oz
Dryer $100.00 Air Wand

That's basically it. I might add a few microfiber towels but that's most of it. That PC 7424 cost so damn much compared to all the other ones. A person told me this.


My understanding is SIP requires the greater heat of a rotary or Flex to properly break down. With the PC 7424 it is better to use IP. I don’t really have much in the way of facts or experience with SIP to back this up but you can’t go wrong with IP.

I’m wondering if this applies to 106FF (vs. FPII) as well, although it shouldn’t really require much breakdown to do its job. The 16 oz containers do dispense more nicely than the 32 oz.


Is it true ? Can I use the SIP and 106FF with the PC 7424 to its fullest potential or should I just stick with IP and FPII.

First  Prev  1  2  3  4  Next  Last
You must be logged in to post.