help!
Posted 5/15/08 , edited 5/15/08
2.4 DOHC with 150,000 miles, that blew a head gasket. Since I was removing the head I decided to do a valve job as well. Once I removed the head I noticed the timing sprockets were worn and the tensioner was all the way out so I decided to replace the timing chains (2) and sprockets. The procedure I followed is as follows:


1. I set the #1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke prior to removing the cylinder head, distributor, old timing chains and sprockets etc.
2. I installed the new lower crankshaft sprocket and aligned the marks on the chain with the marks on the new idler sprocket.
3. I aligned the marks on the upper cam sprockets with the mark on the idler sprocket and installed the new upper cam chain.
4. Once I put it all back together, I made sure the distributor marks were lined up and pointing towards the #1 tower on the distributor cap etc. However, I can't get it to start? It cranks normally but just wont turn over.

I troubleshoot as follows:

1. I checked the fuel system and its getting fuel.
2. I checked for spark and I'm getting good spark.

Since I can't get it to start, I'm assuming the timing chain may be off somehow? I'm starting to doubt weather or not it was on the compression stroke?

1. Is there a definitive way to determine that the engine is on the compression stroke once the engine's been turned over other than putting my finger over the spark plug hole and feeling the air push out?
2. In addition, how can I know if the valve timing is correct? If I position the cam shafts with the #1 piston lobes pointing straight up, the marks on the timing sprockets and chain don't line up. They only line up when the intake cam lobe is laying on the left side pointing towards the intake manifold and the exhaust cam lobe laying on the right side pointing towards the exhaust manifold?

Please help, I'm dreading having to start over and tear down the front of the engine and realign everything.

I have to raise the engine 3" and lower the front suspension 3" to get the oil pan off so I can disconnect the oil strainer from the front lower timing cover since the oil pump is attached to the inside of the timing cover, not to mention removing the air compressor, alternator and power steering pump to get to the motor mounts! Any suggestions?
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Posted 5/15/08
Eh....ouch.
I think that if its a timing problem as to it's a whole 180 degree off and you were on the exhaust stroke to begin with...its all going have to come back apart again.
As for the testing for if theres a more definitive way, it don't really think so. The only way I could think thats left would be to do a compression test. But thats just going to tell you the same thing basically.
I'm pretty sure its all going have to come back out again....Sorry man.
Posted 5/15/08

pookie052606 wrote:

Eh....ouch.
I think that if its a timing problem as to it's a whole 180 degree off and you were on the exhaust stroke to begin with...its all going have to come back apart again.
As for the testing for if theres a more definitive way, it don't really think so. The only way I could think thats left would be to do a compression test. But thats just going to tell you the same thing basically.
I'm pretty sure its all going have to come back out again....Sorry man.

I kinda had that feeling, man i just cant get to turn over, ill get flames out of the exhaust, but thats about it, i have to be doing something wrong, thanks any ways
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Posted 8/10/08
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