Side Frame Rail Corrosion
Posted 8/25/08
I was looking to purchase a car for sale and I ask the owner about problems it had. He said there is only small rust on the rear bumper (not really a problem) and also on the side frame rail, which has me a bit worried.

He said he has done some patching and welding but has not stated the extent of the rust nor answered as to whether its mild surface rust or actually rusted through.

Im just wondering if the Auto Otaku and back door mechanics here think its worth buying if it hasnt been rusted through or has been welded and repaired by his standards or if its salvageable if it does turn out to have been rusted through.

I have asked him for a picture and I will post it up as soon as I recieve it, aswell an answer to the extent of the rust corrosion.
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25 / M / Thessolaniki, Greece
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Posted 8/25/08
I am sorry to hear that Corey, but dont feel bad, you are a stud.

LMAO.
Posted 8/25/08
kik
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30 / M / Your garage
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Posted 8/25/08
What kind of car is it? If its something rare, and the rest of the car is in decent shape, Id say go for it, as long as the price is right.
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25 / M / Thessolaniki, Greece
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Posted 8/25/08 , edited 8/25/08

flatblack240 wrote:

What kind of car is it? If its something rare, and the rest of the car is in decent shape, Id say go for it, as long as the price is right.


lol fuck no.. everyone keeps thinking its gonna be an old muscle car or some fancy exotic.. Naw its just a 240sx. I was planning on getting a new project car, but i wasnt expecting it to have frame rail corrosion. Its 240sx w/ JDM 180sx tail lights and front end (doesnt have that retarded looking headlight partially unfitted) aswell as a DOHC engine KA24 from a 94 Zenki for only $2,500.. but than again would it be that bad if it was only surface rust? btw picture scares me :(
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30 / M / Your garage
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Posted 8/25/08
Surface rust isnt so bad, but its usually deeper than that. Most 240SXs were undercoated. This means the rust forms under the coating, and you dont see it until its way to late, I would be very warry about buying a car that you intend to keep from the internet. I speak from experience when I say, on a 240SX, a small amount of frame rail rust, usually means chunks of the frame are missing. Its a huge problem with most S13s.

You said 94 zenki and I thought to myself, typo, then I realized, you are in Canada, they started selling S14s in 1994 there, instead of 95 here.
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M / Nowheresville, MI
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Posted 8/25/08 , edited 8/25/08
With a hammer, an anvil, tin snips, and a welder, you can fix most any rot. Because I'm not into imports, the description of the car doesn't mean anything to me, but to pay $2500 for a car that potentialy has uni-body rot?, but that's too much in my book.
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25 / M / Thessolaniki, Greece
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Posted 8/26/08

flatblack240 wrote:

Surface rust isnt so bad, but its usually deeper than that. Most 240SXs were undercoated. This means the rust forms under the coating, and you dont see it until its way to late, I would be very warry about buying a car that you intend to keep from the internet. I speak from experience when I say, on a 240SX, a small amount of frame rail rust, usually means chunks of the frame are missing. Its a huge problem with most S13s.

You said 94 zenki and I thought to myself, typo, then I realized, you are in Canada, they started selling S14s in 1994 there, instead of 95 here.


lol well actually there are suprisingly quite a few falsely registered cars up here like R33's stated as R32s, S15 as 13.5 and other "JDM" vehicles in Ottawa.
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Posted 8/26/08
post them pictures, it's best to avoid cars with obvious rusts, but since we live in Canada it can be hard to do.

I thought you were getting the GTR
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27 / M / Oklahoma
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Posted 8/26/08
I'm balls ass confused between XenoVibe and GreekCotan. I thought you just had some crazy ass stalker, but no, it's you.
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25 / M / Thessolaniki, Greece
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Posted 8/27/08

revolutionofone wrote:

I'm balls ass confused between XenoVibe and GreekCotan. I thought you just had some crazy ass stalker, but no, it's you.


LMFAO!!!!
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25 / M / Thessolaniki, Greece
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Posted 8/27/08

Gt-racing wrote:

post them pictures, it's best to avoid cars with obvious rusts, but since we live in Canada it can be hard to do.

I thought you were getting the GTR


I was looking for a 240sx as a daily driver, not a project/track car. I can't afford a track car, i got fired for drinking on the job lol.
.
yeah the one i was looking at from tiger imports japan wasn't safe or worth the money so i didnt take out a loan or buy it. It was just a GTS with a GTR hood, which didnt bolt up right. It had no turbo and the list of problems just seemed to go on and on but its rust was minimal. It would have been a nice project car but i could not afford to rebuild it and for decent skylines here i'd have to pay over 10grand.. 14-16 for a well maintained one. It'd be nice to have someday but i think i'll wait til after college.
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Posted 9/16/08
old car!... consider other cars with no problems on rails
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32 / a
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Posted 12/15/08
go for it
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34 / M / NYC
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Posted 12/16/08 , edited 12/16/08
Ok, is very easy to see how bad the rust got into the frame rail of the S13 S14 Z31 S30 and so on, as of right now i have my 5th or 6th 240sx, i think of even more. I been working with Nissan/Datsun cars for a long time, and I had some ok cars when purchase and some shitty cars too. what you do, is Check on the front part of the rail, hit it with a round head hammer or any metal / iron hummer. not to hard, if sounds solid and with echo or muffed echo it means is good or ok, now if it sound that got no echo it means rust which require some work, now if the hammer goes through it, it means is a rust bucket BIG TIME. the main places with the 240sx Hatch and coupe get rust in the rails is , Front , the side of the front rail, the rear and the mid section, the other thing you gotta look is under the rear wheel well , struts mounts and surroundings, hammer it , just lightly , if it is solid, you are good, if you see that dented too easy it means is really weak and rust is in there already if the hammer go through, GooD LuCK, when I buy a Classic Datsun and Nissan or any Old SKool JDM, I always check this, then the engine, from head to toe. how it idles, the smell of the oil, how it burn the fuel, even if they change the oil the same day of the sale you can tell by taking a good look at the tip of the oil dip stick. also when you take out the Cap for the oil in the valve cover check the cams for lines or burnt lines, this will tell you, if the owner keep a good oil change schedule and what kind of oil he or she use, and how much they push the engine. for the Nissan Frame Rails they are easy to repair, but is best if you take it to somebody that knows how to mold and weld all kinds of metal. if you do it yourself, before your weld do a lot of practice, and every piece you welded , test it how good did you weld it. and ofcourse do it in a really flat surface, the car got it be balance properly. Well for the Price that He or She is Asking, if it got really minimal rust is about 2000, 2300 plus the mileage. if it got low mileage and engine runs smooth is a steal. but if got rust more than one location and pretty much is eating the car slowly but engine good is just too much I would think, 1000 -1500 now if the Car is pretty much a rust bucket , now you are taking too much of a risk if you don't have the tools and the money for repairs. if the tail lights and headlights got your attention, I wouldn't bother a complete set new of tail lights like a Kouki S13 they go from 399 to 500, pretty much goes for the S14, and the Zenki Headlights completed goes for 500-600. ALL these parts brand new, Don't Bother with used, some used parts they are overcharging even higher than brand new, plus you take the risk of not getting the whole completed kit, I seen it before, few of my friends they went to ebay , yahoo and some other website to get them used (I didn't tell them, from where and who i got it since I don't like copy cats Plus I like my cars to be unique) and they paid more than i did, and they all got it always missing something, Scratches, cracked in some cases. If you live near By I could help you with your purchase. i can even get you a better S13 and S14. right now i got a lady offering me her s13 1989 pretty much mint condition one owner. but i can't take it due to i have other projects to finish and almost no free time to work on them and garage plus already run out of space. and in NYC space is really expensive. especially if you got a hobby like this and a regular job.
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