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~Your CR Mechanic~
1748 cr points
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23 / M / Australia
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Posted 12/12/08 , edited 6/11/09
Well, I'm gonna make this nice and simple:

- Curious about how cars work?
- Need a diagnosis on why your car might not be working?
- Wanna know how much that part or how much a particular service will cost so you don't get ripped off?
- Want step by step instructions on how to fix some thing?
- Need to know some thing about your car?

This is the place for you!

OK, So this is how it works:

You state any of the following things that apply to your statement~

- Your question
- Make of car (Honda, Ford etc.)
- Your problem
- Name of part/service (Wheel alignment etc.)
- Description of car/problem

Then the lovely people of CR will answer these questions!

Example~

My question-
How long should I wait for the car to cool down, if i want to change a radiator hose?
Make-
1989 Ford Corsair
Description of car/problem-
My dads car, its very, very stuffed up.
_____________________________

And that's it!

(This topic is aimed at car fanatics, cheap people and DIY kids)
1263 cr points
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26 / M / Philadelphia
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Posted 12/12/08 , edited 12/12/08
90 Eagle Talon Tsi awd

So heres the problem. Now the problem with my car is its running extremely rich. Boost response is crappy and the car feels sluggish. In between a hard shift or medium the car bogs down and almost stalls it self out. Can you solve the problem???
1748 cr points
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23 / M / Australia
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Posted 12/12/08 , edited 12/12/08

lasthope05 wrote:

90 Eagle Talon Tsi awd

So heres the problem. Now the problem with my car is its running extremely rich. Boost response is crappy and the car feels sluggish. In between a hard shift or medium the car bogs down and almost stalls it self out. Can you solve the problem???


I'm not exactly a car expert so some one else might be required to answer this question properly.
Are u running with a pod filter? Turbulence might be the problem here, if u do have a pod it might be collecting to much heat from the engine. You might wanna check your intake.

EDIT: disregard this answer, iv learn't from my mistake
1942 cr points
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25 / M / Oklahoma
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Posted 12/12/08
OP,
You should probably wait an hour and a half.

I know your problem lasthope. You bought a DSM, that's your problem.

I probably couldn't tell you whats wrong without getting my hands dirty. The timing might be wrong, the o2 might be failing, your turbo might not be set at the same PSI.

98 Integra non-vtec
Problem: The old TPS caused the injectors to cut out even at half throttle. The TPS was replaced and the injectors still cut off but only under light loads of throttle.
1263 cr points
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26 / M / Philadelphia
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Posted 12/12/08

revolutionofone wrote:

OP,
You should probably wait an hour and a half.

I know your problem lasthope. You bought a DSM, that's your problem.

I probably couldn't tell you whats wrong without getting my hands dirty. The timing might be wrong, the o2 might be failing, your turbo might not be set at the same PSI.

98 Integra non-vtec
Problem: The old TPS caused the injectors to cut out even at half throttle. The TPS was replaced and the injectors still cut off but only under light loads of throttle.


Haha... I really dont have problems with it. I thought you would of notice my post from way back then. I started a thread similar to this that got closed...haha. My cars running perfectly with no problems at all, Just wanted to see what the newbies in here really know anything about cars.
1748 cr points
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23 / M / Australia
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Posted 12/12/08

revolutionofone wrote:

OP,
You should probably wait an hour and a half.

I know your problem lasthope. You bought a DSM, that's your problem.

I probably couldn't tell you whats wrong without getting my hands dirty. The timing might be wrong, the o2 might be failing, your turbo might not be set at the same PSI.

98 Integra non-vtec
Problem: The old TPS caused the injectors to cut out even at half throttle. The TPS was replaced and the injectors still cut off but only under light loads of throttle.


Hmm, sounds like a problem with the ECU maybe? I think your not getting enough fuel under light loads and under heavy loads, your getting just enough fuel.
1748 cr points
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23 / M / Australia
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Posted 12/12/08

lasthope05 wrote:


revolutionofone wrote:

OP,
You should probably wait an hour and a half.

I know your problem lasthope. You bought a DSM, that's your problem.

I probably couldn't tell you whats wrong without getting my hands dirty. The timing might be wrong, the o2 might be failing, your turbo might not be set at the same PSI.

98 Integra non-vtec
Problem: The old TPS caused the injectors to cut out even at half throttle. The TPS was replaced and the injectors still cut off but only under light loads of throttle.


Haha... I really dont have problems with it. I thought you would of notice my post from way back then. I started a thread similar to this that got closed...haha. My cars running perfectly with no problems at all, Just wanted to see what the newbies in here really know anything about cars.


Lol, that's nice. Seeing as you seem to know a lot, was my answer to your problem alright?
1263 cr points
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26 / M / Philadelphia
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Posted 12/12/08 , edited 12/12/08


Sorry. Nope, not even close. An intake as nothing to do with a way a car runs(directly.)
1942 cr points
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25 / M / Oklahoma
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Posted 12/12/08
The only time I can see an intake creating those problems is if the intake somehow has something that is extremely restricting any kind of airflow to the engine.
1748 cr points
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23 / M / Australia
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Posted 12/12/08

lasthope05 wrote:



Sorry. Nope, not even close. An intake as nothing to do with a way a car runs(directly.)


Lol. fare enough, ill leave the question answering to people like you, i still got a lot to learn
482 cr points
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26 / M / San Francisco, Ca...
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Posted 12/12/08 , edited 12/12/08
Your engine's f#*ked...j/k Like what revolutionofone mentioned, timing might be off, o2 sensors might not be working properly, or turbo is not set. A car running rich might be caused by aftermarket turbo, o2 sensors don't work, or just running a straight pipe.

"In between a hard shift or medium the car bogs down and almost stalls it self out."
-Usually the clutch plate is not contacting the flywheel cause the flywheel is warped or extremely worn down, causing slippage. With slippage, power won't be transferred from the engine to the wheels. Might also answer why the car feels sluggish and throttle response sucks.

nice scenario.

Oh, and intake just sucks in air through the air filter, then into the intake manifold, then air and fuel into the combustion chamber, then (spark) BOOM! Not a full detailed way to describe this, but...basically intake is suck in air through the air filter.
482 cr points
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26 / M / San Francisco, Ca...
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Posted 12/12/08
Scenario: Engine is on. Air is heard from the motor oil dip stick. What's causing it and what's the problem?
1263 cr points
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26 / M / Philadelphia
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Posted 12/12/08 , edited 12/12/08

taketoshibc wrote:

Your engine's f#*ked...j/k Like what revolutionofone mentioned, timing might be off, o2 sensors might not be working properly, or turbo is not set. A car running rich might be caused by aftermarket turbo, o2 sensors don't work, or just running a straight pipe.

"In between a hard shift or medium the car bogs down and almost stalls it self out."
-Usually the clutch plate is not contacting the flywheel cause the flywheel is warped or extremely worn down, causing slippage. With slippage, power won't be transferred from the engine to the wheels. Might also answer why the car feels sluggish and throttle response sucks.

nice scenario.

Oh, and intake just sucks in air through the air filter, then into the intake manifold, then air and fuel into the combustion chamber, then (spark) BOOM! Not a full detailed way to describe this, but...basically intake is suck in air through the air filter.


Straight pipe doesnt really make you run rich its just there to reduce restrictions, a cat is used to reduce emissions. Aftermarket turbo doesn't cause a rich condition either its the complete opposite.

Your diagnosis is about a slipping clutch with has nothing to do with stalling out and the motor bogging. The clutch is medium for the power transfer between the motor and drivetrain. It is directly driven by the motor so when it does slip it power is not lost as the engine is still moving at its same speed its just the drive train thats trying to catch up to it..

Just so you know.


taketoshibc wrote:

Scenario: Engine is on. Air is heard from the motor oil dip stick. What's causing it and what's the problem?


Blow by. From incorrectly seated/worn compression rings 1&2 or washed cylinder walls. All pretty much the same thing.
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22 / F / Nebraska
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Posted 12/12/08

revolutionofone wrote:



98 Integra non-vtec
Problem: The old TPS caused the injectors to cut out even at half throttle. The TPS was replaced and the injectors still cut off but only under light loads of throttle.


Is it stalling out or just running really sluggish at light throttle opening?
Is it setting any codes at all?
Possible that you could have gotten another bad TPS, sweep the throttle and check for specs.
If everythings good, how about data streams? Curious what the computer sees the signal for TPS at and fuel trims for it.
Posted 12/13/08
Ok I have a question, 90 plymouth laser Rs turbo, same as eagle talon. Car runs impossibly rough from shifting from 1-2 or from 2-1. I will put my foot 100% into the clutch, litteraly till my foot hurts, and even if I idle the stick in neautral for a second before shifting, the gears still make an extremely loud (GRIND) spudder noise that rattles the stick shift. I believe the transition of gears is not going smooth with the clutchplate. The problem seems to nullify once the car warms up, but this problem is not lack of experience driving stick as I have been driving stick for well over 2 years now and have become good at performance driving, things like rev matching, doubleclutching, and a few other tricks. I drive my brothers VW GTI all the time when it is fridged cold and shifting is smooth and crisp all the time.

This makes it more confusing, "so why is the problem SO bad for my car when it is freezing cold, and then get better as it warms up" When my bros car isnt inflicted with the problem regardless of cold or hot. This leads me with 2 or 3 assumptions.

A: Synchronization of clutchplate and gears are off, which is unlikely if temperature of my car changes the severity of grinding frequency.

B: Clutch is terridly loose, I know my clutch is quite loose, but I just recently adjusted it so it is much better. This still makes no sense if cold/heat is affecting the frequency of grind.

C: Warnth and spread of synthetic oil once car warms up makes the gears more slick after time so the problem starts to go away, This makes the possibility of bad clutchplate synchronization being possible to an extent and being terrible at cold, and once lubed it gets a little better.

Well once my car is cold and I start it up, no matter what i do it is a 100% guarentee that when I put it into second or from second to 1, It will 100% guarentee grind no matter what I do. Any thougts on this?
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