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~Your CR Mechanic~
1263 cr points
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27 / M / Philadelphia
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Posted 12/13/08 , edited 12/13/08

varnlestoff wrote:

Ok I have a question, 90 plymouth laser Rs turbo, same as eagle talon. Car runs impossibly rough from shifting from 1-2 or from 2-1. I will put my foot 100% into the clutch, litteraly till my foot hurts, and even if I idle the stick in neautral for a second before shifting, the gears still make an extremely loud (GRIND) spudder noise that rattles the stick shift. I believe the transition of gears is not going smooth with the clutchplate. The problem seems to nullify once the car warms up, but this problem is not lack of experience driving stick as I have been driving stick for well over 2 years now and have become good at performance driving, things like rev matching, doubleclutching, and a few other tricks. I drive my brothers VW GTI all the time when it is fridged cold and shifting is smooth and crisp all the time.

This makes it more confusing, "so why is the problem SO bad for my car when it is freezing cold, and then get better as it warms up" When my bros car isnt inflicted with the problem regardless of cold or hot. This leads me with 2 or 3 assumptions.

A: Synchronization of clutchplate and gears are off, which is unlikely if temperature of my car changes the severity of grinding frequency.

B: Clutch is terridly loose, I know my clutch is quite loose, but I just recently adjusted it so it is much better. This still makes no sense if cold/heat is affecting the frequency of grind.

C: Warnth and spread of synthetic oil once car warms up makes the gears more slick after time so the problem starts to go away, This makes the possibility of bad clutchplate synchronization being possible to an extent and being terrible at cold, and once lubed it gets a little better.

Well once my car is cold and I start it up, no matter what i do it is a 100% guarentee that when I put it into second or from second to 1, It will 100% guarentee grind no matter what I do. Any thougts on this?


Its perfectly normal. Syncros are slightly worn. When its cold out the gear oil thickens and doesnt flow too well nor does its friction modifiers. There is nothing short of really fixing this without rebuilding the trans or you could use a lower weight friction modifier like trickshift or syncroshift. The cold weather does to this to many people.



Hey pookie your back!..haha Havent seen you around here in a while.
1491 cr points
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22 / F / Nebraska
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Posted 12/13/08

lasthope05 wrote:

Hey pookie your back!..haha Havent seen you around here in a while.


Haha hey Lasthope. Yeah I was bored and was lurking around here and saw this tech thread. Thought it was the one you originally made so I decided to read into it.

Aha so how are things? Hows that shop of your's?
Posted 12/13/08 , edited 12/13/08

Posted 12/13/08 , edited 12/13/08

lasthope05 wrote:


varnlestoff wrote:

Ok I have a question, 90 plymouth laser Rs turbo, same as eagle talon. Car runs impossibly rough from shifting from 1-2 or from 2-1. I will put my foot 100% into the clutch, litteraly till my foot hurts, and even if I idle the stick in neautral for a second before shifting, the gears still make an extremely loud (GRIND) spudder noise that rattles the stick shift. I believe the transition of gears is not going smooth with the clutchplate. The problem seems to nullify once the car warms up, but this problem is not lack of experience driving stick as I have been driving stick for well over 2 years now and have become good at performance driving, things like rev matching, doubleclutching, and a few other tricks. I drive my brothers VW GTI all the time when it is fridged cold and shifting is smooth and crisp all the time.

This makes it more confusing, "so why is the problem SO bad for my car when it is freezing cold, and then get better as it warms up" When my bros car isnt inflicted with the problem regardless of cold or hot. This leads me with 2 or 3 assumptions.

A: Synchronization of clutchplate and gears are off, which is unlikely if temperature of my car changes the severity of grinding frequency.

B: Clutch is terridly loose, I know my clutch is quite loose, but I just recently adjusted it so it is much better. This still makes no sense if cold/heat is affecting the frequency of grind.

C: Warnth and spread of synthetic oil once car warms up makes the gears more slick after time so the problem starts to go away, This makes the possibility of bad clutchplate synchronization being possible to an extent and being terrible at cold, and once lubed it gets a little better.

Well once my car is cold and I start it up, no matter what i do it is a 100% guarentee that when I put it into second or from second to 1, It will 100% guarentee grind no matter what I do. Any thougts on this?


Its perfectly normal. Syncros are slightly worn. When its cold out the gear oil thickens and doesnt flow too well nor does its friction modifiers. There is nothing short of really fixing this without rebuilding the trans or you could use a lower weight friction modifier like trickshift or syncroshift. The cold weather does to this to many people.



Hey pookie your back!..haha Havent seen you around here in a while.


The loud grind noize, is it doing any major damage? Or does it just sound extremely irratating? Everytime I grind I feel like I have commited some crime to the car or something, the irritation is almost like grinding nails on a chalkboard. It is sort of silly when you are shifting and the grind is so loud people on the sidewalk turn there head wondering what the noise is. I mean the grind can be so forceful that if I try to put it into second, the gear will litteraly throw it back at me forcing me to have it in neurtal and retry. I am hoping that I am not doing alot of damage. If I am, I may need to warm my car up every morning before I leave.
2672 cr points
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36 / M / Michigan, USA
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Posted 12/14/08
Mine is easy! I have a stock 2003 Honda Civic Lx Sedan. I would like to know people's recommendations for car repair sites and car forums.

I want to start doing maintenance and adjustments on it and would like a good reference site. Thanks in advance!
1809 cr points
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32
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Posted 12/14/08

varnlestoff wrote:


lasthope05 wrote:


varnlestoff wrote:

Ok I have a question, 90 plymouth laser Rs turbo, same as eagle talon. Car runs impossibly rough from shifting from 1-2 or from 2-1. I will put my foot 100% into the clutch, litteraly till my foot hurts, and even if I idle the stick in neautral for a second before shifting, the gears still make an extremely loud (GRIND) spudder noise that rattles the stick shift. I believe the transition of gears is not going smooth with the clutchplate. The problem seems to nullify once the car warms up, but this problem is not lack of experience driving stick as I have been driving stick for well over 2 years now and have become good at performance driving, things like rev matching, doubleclutching, and a few other tricks. I drive my brothers VW GTI all the time when it is fridged cold and shifting is smooth and crisp all the time.

This makes it more confusing, "so why is the problem SO bad for my car when it is freezing cold, and then get better as it warms up" When my bros car isnt inflicted with the problem regardless of cold or hot. This leads me with 2 or 3 assumptions.

A: Synchronization of clutchplate and gears are off, which is unlikely if temperature of my car changes the severity of grinding frequency.

B: Clutch is terridly loose, I know my clutch is quite loose, but I just recently adjusted it so it is much better. This still makes no sense if cold/heat is affecting the frequency of grind.

C: Warnth and spread of synthetic oil once car warms up makes the gears more slick after time so the problem starts to go away, This makes the possibility of bad clutchplate synchronization being possible to an extent and being terrible at cold, and once lubed it gets a little better.

Well once my car is cold and I start it up, no matter what i do it is a 100% guarentee that when I put it into second or from second to 1, It will 100% guarentee grind no matter what I do. Any thougts on this?


Its perfectly normal. Syncros are slightly worn. When its cold out the gear oil thickens and doesnt flow too well nor does its friction modifiers. There is nothing short of really fixing this without rebuilding the trans or you could use a lower weight friction modifier like trickshift or syncroshift. The cold weather does to this to many people.



Hey pookie your back!..haha Havent seen you around here in a while.


The loud grind noize, is it doing any major damage? Or does it just sound extremely irratating? Everytime I grind I feel like I have commited some crime to the car or something, the irritation is almost like grinding nails on a chalkboard. It is sort of silly when you are shifting and the grind is so loud people on the sidewalk turn there head wondering what the noise is. I mean the grind can be so forceful that if I try to put it into second, the gear will litteraly throw it back at me forcing me to have it in neurtal and retry. I am hoping that I am not doing alot of damage. If I am, I may need to warm my car up every morning before I leave.


just sounds like an old worn trans. a little grind every now and then when shifting wont do much just dont try to force it.

when u go to shift just hold down the clutch for a sec or 2 then shift. syncros are prolly worn out or the trans bearings are worn out.

1809 cr points
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32
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Posted 12/14/08

Haroludo wrote:

Mine is easy! I have a stock 2003 Honda Civic Lx Sedan. I would like to know people's recommendations for car repair sites and car forums.

I want to start doing maintenance and adjustments on it and would like a good reference site. Thanks in advance!


Get a FSM. if u are gonna work on your car and get a good one from factory or the net. those haynes and chiltions manuels sux ass

1491 cr points
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22 / F / Nebraska
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Posted 12/14/08

Haroludo wrote:

Mine is easy! I have a stock 2003 Honda Civic Lx Sedan. I would like to know people's recommendations for car repair sites and car forums.

I want to start doing maintenance and adjustments on it and would like a good reference site. Thanks in advance!


www.honda-tech.com
2672 cr points
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36 / M / Michigan, USA
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Posted 12/14/08

pookie052606 wrote:

www.honda-tech.com


Awesome! Thank you!
1263 cr points
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27 / M / Philadelphia
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Posted 12/14/08 , edited 12/14/08



Well if the grinding is as bad as you make it seem than I positive your 1/2 hub slider is also damaged. Common problem associated with our transmissions if you dont do anything to prevent it. Its a cheap part from the dealer($100) if you choose to rebuild your trans. Also I saw your video for you start up... sounds like that grinding you have is from a bad throwout bear for the clutch or a very bad end bearing in your trans but im willing to bet its the TOB.

Pookie,
Things are going good. The shops doing decent even in this bad economy. Havent really been doing much really just the usual norm. You finished voc school yet? I know thats only a 2 year program.
1491 cr points
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22 / F / Nebraska
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Posted 12/14/08

lasthope05 wrote:

Pookie,
Things are going good. The shops doing decent even in this bad economy. Havent really been doing much really just the usual norm. You finished voc school yet? I know thats only a 2 year program.


I'm finishing up with school, graduating this week.
But nice to hear that your shop is doing well. I'm going to start working full time in a shop here too. Business where I am seems dead, especially for any of the big 3 dealerships here...sucks, it was near impossible getting a job.
Posted 12/15/08
this post again!! hmm i wish i had problems with my 240 but sadly i don't.. kinda strange i havnt had problems with it yet!!,,,, wtf is going haha
388 cr points
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30 / a
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Posted 12/15/08
how do you integrate the wiring of an aftermarket fog lights with a switch to the headlight switch..

i'm installing a fog light on my car that would look like stock.. so incase i forget to turn off the fog lights, it makes the chime warnings.. like a a car with fog lights that you bought of a dealership..
1942 cr points
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25 / M / Oklahoma
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Posted 12/15/08
If you have a wiring schematic for your foglights, find the power wire. Cut the power wire after the switch. Get a in line fuse from autozone with the appropriate fuse.

Now, you have two ways of doing this. There's the easy way which only requires a wire tap that looks cheap. Or you can pull the pin connector from the headlight combo switch and buy a new pin connector and crimp both headlight power and fogllight power into the connector and still looks uncut.
1263 cr points
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27 / M / Philadelphia
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Posted 12/15/08 , edited 12/15/08
The correct way of doing it is running the fogs on a relay with the headlights as the trigger. You would then put a switch inbetween the relay and headlights to trigger on or off. This way if you leave the switch on, once you turn the headlights off the fogs go off automatically.

Foglights > relay > switch > headlights.
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