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47039 cr points
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15 / F / California
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Posted 10/5/10
I'm too lazy to look I just figured I'd give it a shot. I don't own one..
12 cr points
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27
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Posted 10/6/10
Which commodore doses the best?
22967 cr points
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25 / M / SF Bay Area, CA (...
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Posted 10/11/10

Turtletron wrote:

Which commodore doses the best?


I don't understand your question, please clarify...
5099 cr points
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33 / M
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Posted 10/13/10
...AWDfreak, notice how Yohann gets suspiciously quiet when I bring up something so utterly non-modern?

It makes me sad dammit. Very sad.
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25 / M / SF Bay Area, CA (...
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Posted 10/13/10

dposcuro wrote:

...AWDfreak, notice how Yohann gets suspiciously quiet when I bring up something so utterly non-modern?

It makes me sad dammit. Very sad.


The carburetor is a dying breed... Our generation of car enthusiasts needs to respect the classics a bit more.

But I will NOT look away towards classic cars. I know I WILL own an older Subaru with carbs and all, because it's so much easier to work on (well, most of it) due to the simplicity.


And there is no denying the nice throaty roar of a carb'd engine...

as demonstrated here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNVhTTKokkU
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33 / M
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Posted 10/13/10 , edited 10/13/10
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32 / M / Florida
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Posted 10/20/10 , edited 10/20/10
Weird......didn't expect to find this here.

I'm an EFI tuner too. I have been tuning since 2002.
I recently specialized in only Scoobs and EBOs now though. I've done several hundred scoobs......BTW Dynapacks suck..........i'd rather tune a car in a school zone. lol

I have a severely built......well put together bugeye. PPG dogbox, Fully built everything.....and STOCK panels. lol
It looks kinda stock until it's started and it's kind of a gimme with the huge cams loping away.

Good to see there's gearheads everywhere.
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25 / M / SF Bay Area, CA (...
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Posted 10/20/10

AnthonySon wrote:

Weird......didn't expect to find this here.

I'm an EFI tuner too. I have been tuning since 2002.
I recently specialized in only Scoobs and EBOs now though. I've done several hundred scoobs......BTW Dynapacks suck..........i'd rather tune a car in a school zone. lol

I have a severely built......well put together bugeye. PPG dogbox, Fully built everything.....and STOCK panels. lol
It looks kinda stock until it's started and it's kind of a gimme with the huge cams loping away.

Good to see there's gearheads everywhere.


I'd like to know more of your Subie!
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25 / M / SF Bay Area, CA (...
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Posted 10/20/10


I forgot to mention...

that sounds BADASS! Hardly any new 4-cylinders could sound that badass!
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32 / M / Florida
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Posted 10/20/10 , edited 10/20/10

AWDfreak wrote:


AnthonySon wrote:

Weird......didn't expect to find this here.

I'm an EFI tuner too. I have been tuning since 2002.
I recently specialized in only Scoobs and EBOs now though. I've done several hundred scoobs......BTW Dynapacks suck..........i'd rather tune a car in a school zone. lol

I have a severely built......well put together bugeye. PPG dogbox, Fully built everything.....and STOCK panels. lol
It looks kinda stock until it's started and it's kind of a gimme with the huge cams loping away.

Good to see there's gearheads everywhere.


I'd like to know more of your Subie!


Pretty basic built Subaru.

CNC Drag Ported and hand finished EJ205 Heads decked for compression w/ BC 280 Cams, +1mm +2mm oversized SS valves with 5 angle, Full Tit Spring/Retainers/Guides
Brand new (STi) EJ257 2.5Lw/ 100mm Custom CP pistons (coated) 100mm bore makes it a 2.55L
BC Pro I-Beam Rods with APR Custom-age Bolts
ACL/OEM Bearings
Cryo'd Crank
Cryo'd everything really....the whole motor in pieces one way or another sat in a 48 hour cryo treatment.
Gates Racing Timing belt/guides
11mm Oil pump (shimmed)
35R turbo
Tial 44mm WG
Gruppe-s Header
8mm Phelonic Spacers
AEM Alchohol Kit and Stand Alone
Every bolt on imaginable really.....

I have around 10 grand just in the new longblock.

The Trans is PPG 1-4 Straightcut gearset, billet shift forks, PPG synchros, PPG front differential, OE center diff, Kartboy everything bushings. (Trans is very very noisy)

I had a vid somewhere on you tube of the idle...sounds like a pro-mod. No big WOT pulls yet only a few hundred miles on her and a stock VF39 (STi turbo) on her until shes all the way broken in and ready for the bigger one. I will be going Precision 6765 soon.....(37-40R equivalent) soon. My goal is 600 on pump gas and alcohol. 650 with a big +++ on C16. 700s fingers crossed at the wheels if i have enough fuel. I figure i'll dry up the fuel system at 650s even spraying 900ccs of 100% methanol. Yeah that's over 850hp at the crank :)

Also has a 45-75 shot wet nitrous kit.....used for getting off the line and turbo spooled instantly. I won't be spraying too much with this motor as i went un-sleeved this time.
22967 cr points
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25 / M / SF Bay Area, CA (...
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Posted 10/21/10

AnthonySon wrote:


AWDfreak wrote:


AnthonySon wrote:

Weird......didn't expect to find this here.

I'm an EFI tuner too. I have been tuning since 2002.
I recently specialized in only Scoobs and EBOs now though. I've done several hundred scoobs......BTW Dynapacks suck..........i'd rather tune a car in a school zone. lol

I have a severely built......well put together bugeye. PPG dogbox, Fully built everything.....and STOCK panels. lol
It looks kinda stock until it's started and it's kind of a gimme with the huge cams loping away.

Good to see there's gearheads everywhere.


I'd like to know more of your Subie!


Pretty basic built Subaru.

CNC Drag Ported and hand finished EJ205 Heads decked for compression w/ BC 280 Cams, +1mm +2mm oversized SS valves with 5 angle, Full Tit Spring/Retainers/Guides
Brand new (STi) EJ257 2.5Lw/ 100mm Custom CP pistons (coated) 100mm bore makes it a 2.55L
BC Pro I-Beam Rods with APR Custom-age Bolts
ACL/OEM Bearings
Cryo'd Crank
Cryo'd everything really....the whole motor in pieces one way or another sat in a 48 hour cryo treatment.
Gates Racing Timing belt/guides
11mm Oil pump (shimmed)
35R turbo
Tial 44mm WG
Gruppe-s Header
8mm Phelonic Spacers
AEM Alchohol Kit and Stand Alone
Every bolt on imaginable really.....

I have around 10 grand just in the new longblock.

The Trans is PPG 1-4 Straightcut gearset, billet shift forks, PPG synchros, PPG front differential, OE center diff, Kartboy everything bushings. (Trans is very very noisy)

I had a vid somewhere on you tube of the idle...sounds like a pro-mod. No big WOT pulls yet only a few hundred miles on her and a stock VF39 (STi turbo) on her until shes all the way broken in and ready for the bigger one. I will be going Precision 6765 soon.....(37-40R equivalent) soon. My goal is 600 on pump gas and alcohol. 650 with a big +++ on C16. 700s fingers crossed at the wheels if i have enough fuel. I figure i'll dry up the fuel system at 650s even spraying 900ccs of 100% methanol. Yeah that's over 850hp at the crank :)

Also has a 45-75 shot wet nitrous kit.....used for getting off the line and turbo spooled instantly. I won't be spraying too much with this motor as i went un-sleeved this time.


Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu-

that's a crapton of mods. So you intend to make it an AWD drag racer?
Posted 11/24/10
I need a set of Desmond Regamasters like last week. I need the ones that come in teflon black and 4 lug that say spoon on them but are actually made by desmond. I saw them on honda-tech. The size I need is 14x9 with a zero offset. They are called Desmond RegaSpoonMaster SW388. Thanks!!
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33 / M / So Cali, OC
Online
Posted 12/2/10
ahhh i total forgot about this thread! I usually dont go on the forum so if wanna talk to me or ask me question quote me and it will send me a email notification.

@dposcuro, alot of my buddies work on the classic Japanese cars but for me i don't usually deal with anything before a AE86 unless its a Datsun L engine I gotta go where the money is ;)


@AnthonySon There is pros and cons for all dyno system, on the roller system you get tire slip and its very bulky so for smaller size shop it occupies alot of space, theirs also issues of tire size and rim size affecting the dyno run. The pros of the roller is that its MUCH MUCH faster to load up cars, it can dyno more high end WHP over 1200WHP, you can dyno automatics on it. The reason why we went with a Dyno Pak is its small and can be stored away when its not in use. 2) It is alot better for AWD cars since it reads individual hub spins vs per a axel. You can trouble shoot differentials on it. Its more accurate then the rollers. The draw backs on a dyno pak is takes a long time to load, its much more expensive then rollers, more parts = more possibility of dyno failure and its expensive as hell to get repaired.

@TurboB18C1DC2 those are old school collector rims very hard to get now a days. You can always go with Rota... if you have balls
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25 / M / SF Bay Area, CA (...
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Posted 12/3/10

Yohannbear wrote:

ahhh i total forgot about this thread! I usually dont go on the forum so if wanna talk to me or ask me question quote me and it will send me a email notification.

@dposcuro, alot of my buddies work on the classic Japanese cars but for me i don't usually deal with anything before a AE86 unless its a Datsun L engine I gotta go where the money is ;)


@AnthonySon There is pros and cons for all dyno system, on the roller system you get tire slip and its very bulky so for smaller size shop it occupies alot of space, theirs also issues of tire size and rim size affecting the dyno run. The pros of the roller is that its MUCH MUCH faster to load up cars, it can dyno more high end WHP over 1200WHP, you can dyno automatics on it. The reason why we went with a Dyno Pak is its small and can be stored away when its not in use. 2) It is alot better for AWD cars since it reads individual hub spins vs per a axel. You can trouble shoot differentials on it. Its more accurate then the rollers. The draw backs on a dyno pak is takes a long time to load, its much more expensive then rollers, more parts = more possibility of dyno failure and its expensive as hell to get repaired.

@TurboB18C1DC2 those are old school collector rims very hard to get now a days. You can always go with Rota... if you have balls :)


DC2 should just go get Rotas :p

Oh and FYI for everyone...

Posted 12/3/10

Yohannbear wrote:

ahhh i total forgot about this thread! I usually dont go on the forum so if wanna talk to me or ask me question quote me and it will send me a email notification.

@dposcuro, alot of my buddies work on the classic Japanese cars but for me i don't usually deal with anything before a AE86 unless its a Datsun L engine I gotta go where the money is ;)


@AnthonySon There is pros and cons for all dyno system, on the roller system you get tire slip and its very bulky so for smaller size shop it occupies alot of space, theirs also issues of tire size and rim size affecting the dyno run. The pros of the roller is that its MUCH MUCH faster to load up cars, it can dyno more high end WHP over 1200WHP, you can dyno automatics on it. The reason why we went with a Dyno Pak is its small and can be stored away when its not in use. 2) It is alot better for AWD cars since it reads individual hub spins vs per a axel. You can trouble shoot differentials on it. Its more accurate then the rollers. The draw backs on a dyno pak is takes a long time to load, its much more expensive then rollers, more parts = more possibility of dyno failure and its expensive as hell to get repaired.

@TurboB18C1DC2 those are old school collector rims very hard to get now a days. You can always go with Rota... if you have balls :)


Desmonds are not hard to find. and rotas suck oscar meyer
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