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Drift Racing
850 cr points
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26 / M / california
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Posted 11/12/08

DtGamblaz wrote:

Drifting has its pros and cons. As for me I find it entertaining than some. Yes it's true that some corners aren't best suited for drifting but you have to mix and grip and drift if you want to be fast. You don't really need much. Just get a rwd manual. As for modification you don't really need to do anything. But if you need to do a few modification having an upgraded suspension, LSD (2way in my opinion is good), wide fenders (for bigger tires and angle), and some cars that needs a little more steering angle. As for the person that has a RX7 with the working DTSS just remove unless your already used to it. I'm in the process of removing mines since it's old.



screw a 2way, get a 2way if you want to put a dent in your wallet (and dont forget rehauling it too) get a welded if you want to drift





RossoCorsa wrote:


Jotvingis wrote:

Hey, sorry for maby a stupid question, but you won't know if you don't ask... do I have to remove ABS if i want to drift? p.s. how to fuck do i change that stupid avatar? -.-


ABS is a keeper. The only 3-letter word that i can think of that'd need any real modification is the LSD.
If you have a rear wheel drive car with a stickshift, you're good for doing basics.


yea all you really need to drift is LSD(rwd car also) suspension makes it easier to drift

683 cr points
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Posted 11/12/08

yangss14 wrote:


DtGamblaz wrote:

Drifting has its pros and cons. As for me I find it entertaining than some. Yes it's true that some corners aren't best suited for drifting but you have to mix and grip and drift if you want to be fast. You don't really need much. Just get a rwd manual. As for modification you don't really need to do anything. But if you need to do a few modification having an upgraded suspension, LSD (2way in my opinion is good), wide fenders (for bigger tires and angle), and some cars that needs a little more steering angle. As for the person that has a RX7 with the working DTSS just remove unless your already used to it. I'm in the process of removing mines since it's old.



screw a 2way, get a 2way if you want to put a dent in your wallet (and dont forget rehauling it too) get a welded if you want to drift









I thought a 1 way was good for novice and 1.5 for more skilled drifters.
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26 / M / california
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Posted 11/12/08 , edited 11/12/08

veyron1001 wrote:


yangss14 wrote:


DtGamblaz wrote:

Drifting has its pros and cons. As for me I find it entertaining than some. Yes it's true that some corners aren't best suited for drifting but you have to mix and grip and drift if you want to be fast. You don't really need much. Just get a rwd manual. As for modification you don't really need to do anything. But if you need to do a few modification having an upgraded suspension, LSD (2way in my opinion is good), wide fenders (for bigger tires and angle), and some cars that needs a little more steering angle. As for the person that has a RX7 with the working DTSS just remove unless your already used to it. I'm in the process of removing mines since it's old.



screw a 2way, get a 2way if you want to put a dent in your wallet (and dont forget rehauling it too) get a welded if you want to drift









I thought a 1 way was good for novice and 1.5 for more skilled drifters.



well your wrong 1way 1.5 way doesnt put you in a class for drifting.. it depends on what time of racing you want to do..duh

id say like a 1 way and 1.5 way is closer to a viscous type if anything without the overheating (after it overheats it acts likea open diff) for the viscous 1.5 is for people who like to grip/touge/drift all in 1 so you dont have a complete lock (has the diff play so that it wont understeer like the welded) so if your going to be doing just strictly drifting then get a welded or a 2way (if you have the money) even still iwouldnt waste my money on a 2way, and having to rehaul it every some thousand miles


also im not saying that the 1 way or the 1.5 overheats but its just not as great as a welded or 2way for drifting
198 cr points
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28 / M / CA
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Posted 11/12/08

yangss14 wrote:


DtGamblaz wrote:

Drifting has its pros and cons. As for me I find it entertaining than some. Yes it's true that some corners aren't best suited for drifting but you have to mix and grip and drift if you want to be fast. You don't really need much. Just get a rwd manual. As for modification you don't really need to do anything. But if you need to do a few modification having an upgraded suspension, LSD (2way in my opinion is good), wide fenders (for bigger tires and angle), and some cars that needs a little more steering angle. As for the person that has a RX7 with the working DTSS just remove unless your already used to it. I'm in the process of removing mines since it's old.



screw a 2way, get a 2way if you want to put a dent in your wallet (and dont forget rehauling it too) get a welded if you want to drift


If your getting it welded just make sure its welded good. As for the 2way yes it will make your wallet hungry. But everyone has their own set-up that they like. I just don't like parking when it's welded, other than that if I'm low on the budget then I'll get it welded.
65 cr points
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24 / M / Lithuania
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Posted 11/12/08

RossoCorsa wrote:


Jotvingis wrote:


RossoCorsa wrote:


Jotvingis wrote:


RossoCorsa wrote:


Jotvingis wrote:

Hey, sorry for maby a stupid question, but you won't know if you don't ask... do I have to remove ABS if i want to drift? p.s. how to fuck do i change that stupid avatar? -.-


ABS is a keeper. The only 3-letter word that i can think of that'd need any real modification is the LSD.
If you have a rear wheel drive car with a stickshift, you're good for doing basics.


Thnx, (keeper means I leave it right?) still don't have my drivers license, and it's not easy to get an RWD car in my country but I'm looking for it ^-^


If you absolutely can't find a car that's rear wheel drive, an awd car that's made more towards rally car competition is a perfect match for you. Since rally cars were built to handle almost any worldly terrain at any time, they've got the most balance going on the car. So although it's not like insanely fast or a perfect drift machine, at least you have a car that doesn't suck at any specific thing. and yes, keeper = keep it in.


It's not like impossible to find an RWD car round here, it's just that better ones costs money... there are cheaper ones but they all are like BMW, Mercedes or Ford Scorpio and Sierra that were driven by "gangstas" and "mafiozos" so they'r alomoast dead... (and I realy don't have money for a brand new car ). ofcourse I think I could afford a new (or almost new) Lada or VAZ (the older version) because some of them are RWD but it's not the best car ever...


One thing you need to remember is that with any used car, you're buying it as it was when someone sells it to you. it might be because they just don't want the car anymore, or it could be something like an electrical or rust problem that they aren't telling you about.

So really, if you're buying a car especially for something like drifting, you now are going to put in just about the same amount of money into that car as you did the price of the car, sometimes even more.



So you'r saying if I'm getting a car I should get a new one or in a realy neat condition? Yea... Time to go and rob a bank Well there are imports from geramny of used cars that are still good and there is like big markets where people take theyr' cars and you can test ride it, you know, check if there isnt any rust and stuff like that
65 cr points
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24 / M / Lithuania
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Posted 11/12/08 , edited 11/12/08

DtGamblaz wrote:


yangss14 wrote:


DtGamblaz wrote:

Drifting has its pros and cons. As for me I find it entertaining than some. Yes it's true that some corners aren't best suited for drifting but you have to mix and grip and drift if you want to be fast. You don't really need much. Just get a rwd manual. As for modification you don't really need to do anything. But if you need to do a few modification having an upgraded suspension, LSD (2way in my opinion is good), wide fenders (for bigger tires and angle), and some cars that needs a little more steering angle. As for the person that has a RX7 with the working DTSS just remove unless your already used to it. I'm in the process of removing mines since it's old.



screw a 2way, get a 2way if you want to put a dent in your wallet (and dont forget rehauling it too) get a welded if you want to drift


If your getting it welded just make sure its welded good. As for the 2way yes it will make your wallet hungry. But everyone has their own set-up that they like. I just don't like parking when it's welded, other than that if I'm low on the budget then I'll get it welded.


Um I'm not english so sometimes it's quite hard to understand everything... So what the hell is welded? Ok I checked at google and now I know what welding is, I actualy can do basics of it myself ^^ but what do i weld? And one more thing, why dont you like parking when it's welded?
1879 cr points
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26 / M / California
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Posted 11/13/08

Jotvingis wrote:


RossoCorsa wrote:


Jotvingis wrote:


RossoCorsa wrote:


Jotvingis wrote:


RossoCorsa wrote:


Jotvingis wrote:

Hey, sorry for maby a stupid question, but you won't know if you don't ask... do I have to remove ABS if i want to drift? p.s. how to fuck do i change that stupid avatar? -.-


ABS is a keeper. The only 3-letter word that i can think of that'd need any real modification is the LSD.
If you have a rear wheel drive car with a stickshift, you're good for doing basics.


Thnx, (keeper means I leave it right?) still don't have my drivers license, and it's not easy to get an RWD car in my country but I'm looking for it ^-^


If you absolutely can't find a car that's rear wheel drive, an awd car that's made more towards rally car competition is a perfect match for you. Since rally cars were built to handle almost any worldly terrain at any time, they've got the most balance going on the car. So although it's not like insanely fast or a perfect drift machine, at least you have a car that doesn't suck at any specific thing. and yes, keeper = keep it in.


It's not like impossible to find an RWD car round here, it's just that better ones costs money... there are cheaper ones but they all are like BMW, Mercedes or Ford Scorpio and Sierra that were driven by "gangstas" and "mafiozos" so they'r alomoast dead... (and I realy don't have money for a brand new car ). ofcourse I think I could afford a new (or almost new) Lada or VAZ (the older version) because some of them are RWD but it's not the best car ever...


One thing you need to remember is that with any used car, you're buying it as it was when someone sells it to you. it might be because they just don't want the car anymore, or it could be something like an electrical or rust problem that they aren't telling you about.

So really, if you're buying a car especially for something like drifting, you now are going to put in just about the same amount of money into that car as you did the price of the car, sometimes even more.



So you'r saying if I'm getting a car I should get a new one or in a realy neat condition? Yea... Time to go and rob a bank Well there are imports from geramny of used cars that are still good and there is like big markets where people take theyr' cars and you can test ride it, you know, check if there isnt any rust and stuff like that


No no no, what i'm saying is just remember to buy a car with a mindset that you will build it up later, but you want something that's great just as is right now.

As long as the car is rear wheel drive and stickshift, it has potential for drifting. However, if it's something backed with lots of performance upgrades, it's easier for you to not be stuck with one specific crappy brand versus original upgrade parts. More popularity means more choices.

I'd recommend getting a car that has a few dents in it or torn/stained interior.

if you're drifting, you'll need to rip all that shit out anyway since you'd want to save weight, plus you'll end up customizing that stuff anyway in the near future should the need arise.

But, if you find a really nice car that has dents on the body and a damaged interior, you can often haggle with dealers and they'll give you a lower price.

65 cr points
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24 / M / Lithuania
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Posted 11/13/08

RossoCorsa wrote:


Jotvingis wrote:


RossoCorsa wrote:


Jotvingis wrote:


RossoCorsa wrote:


Jotvingis wrote:


RossoCorsa wrote:


Jotvingis wrote:

Hey, sorry for maby a stupid question, but you won't know if you don't ask... do I have to remove ABS if i want to drift? p.s. how to fuck do i change that stupid avatar? -.-


ABS is a keeper. The only 3-letter word that i can think of that'd need any real modification is the LSD.
If you have a rear wheel drive car with a stickshift, you're good for doing basics.


Thnx, (keeper means I leave it right?) still don't have my drivers license, and it's not easy to get an RWD car in my country but I'm looking for it ^-^


If you absolutely can't find a car that's rear wheel drive, an awd car that's made more towards rally car competition is a perfect match for you. Since rally cars were built to handle almost any worldly terrain at any time, they've got the most balance going on the car. So although it's not like insanely fast or a perfect drift machine, at least you have a car that doesn't suck at any specific thing. and yes, keeper = keep it in.


It's not like impossible to find an RWD car round here, it's just that better ones costs money... there are cheaper ones but they all are like BMW, Mercedes or Ford Scorpio and Sierra that were driven by "gangstas" and "mafiozos" so they'r alomoast dead... (and I realy don't have money for a brand new car ). ofcourse I think I could afford a new (or almost new) Lada or VAZ (the older version) because some of them are RWD but it's not the best car ever...


One thing you need to remember is that with any used car, you're buying it as it was when someone sells it to you. it might be because they just don't want the car anymore, or it could be something like an electrical or rust problem that they aren't telling you about.

So really, if you're buying a car especially for something like drifting, you now are going to put in just about the same amount of money into that car as you did the price of the car, sometimes even more.



So you'r saying if I'm getting a car I should get a new one or in a realy neat condition? Yea... Time to go and rob a bank Well there are imports from geramny of used cars that are still good and there is like big markets where people take theyr' cars and you can test ride it, you know, check if there isnt any rust and stuff like that


No no no, what i'm saying is just remember to buy a car with a mindset that you will build it up later, but you want something that's great just as is right now.

As long as the car is rear wheel drive and stickshift, it has potential for drifting. However, if it's something backed with lots of performance upgrades, it's easier for you to not be stuck with one specific crappy brand versus original upgrade parts. More popularity means more choices.

I'd recommend getting a car that has a few dents in it or torn/stained interior.

if you're drifting, you'll need to rip all that shit out anyway since you'd want to save weight, plus you'll end up customizing that stuff anyway in the near future should the need arise.

But, if you find a really nice car that has dents on the body and a damaged interior, you can often haggle with dealers and they'll give you a lower price.



Ok I'll keep that in mind Big thanx, you've been grat help ^-^ But I will still be flooding this forum with my other questions that arises e.g. that whelding thing
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26 / M / Mississauga, Ontario
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Posted 11/13/08
Wish I could but I only have a Mazda 6 FWD ftl :/
331 cr points
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24 / M / colorado
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Posted 11/13/08

Xeqtrr123 wrote:

Wish I could but I only have a Mazda 6 FWD ftl :/


well you can still power slide!
or wait for snow!
haha, i have integra now but am a drifter at heart so in the same boat.

back when i first started driving i had a v6 rwd toyota camry.
didn't take me long to figure out rwd=fun.
after three hours i was going around corners at 60mph with smoke behind me.
really fun!!

then two months later got hit by guy driving without his headlights on at midnight!
thus, fun ended.
but soon i will be back with an rx7(fc)!!
1942 cr points
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25 / M / Oklahoma
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Posted 11/14/08

InZanity1254 wrote:


Xeqtrr123 wrote:

Wish I could but I only have a Mazda 6 FWD ftl :/


well you can still power slide!
or wait for snow!
haha, i have integra now but am a drifter at heart so in the same boat.

back when i first started driving i had a v6 rwd toyota camry.
didn't take me long to figure out rwd=fun.
after three hours i was going around corners at 60mph with smoke behind me.
really fun!!

then two months later got hit by guy driving without his headlights on at midnight!
thus, fun ended.
but soon i will be back with an rx7(fc)!!


Only one generation of Camry's were ever rwd and it did not have a V6, nor would it have enough power to scoot around corners at 60mph.
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24 / M / colorado
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Posted 11/14/08

revolutionofone wrote:


InZanity1254 wrote:


Xeqtrr123 wrote:

Wish I could but I only have a Mazda 6 FWD ftl :/


well you can still power slide!
or wait for snow!
haha, i have integra now but am a drifter at heart so in the same boat.

back when i first started driving i had a v6 rwd toyota camry.
didn't take me long to figure out rwd=fun.
after three hours i was going around corners at 60mph with smoke behind me.
really fun!!

then two months later got hit by guy driving without his headlights on at midnight!
thus, fun ended.
but soon i will be back with an rx7(fc)!!


Only one generation of Camry's were ever rwd and it did not have a V6, nor would it have enough power to scoot around corners at 60mph.


myne was a 1991 and it did have a v6 and it was rwd.
look at the 2vz-fe engine http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_VZ_engine#2VZ-FE
159hp isn't that great but its definitely enough.
1942 cr points
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25 / M / Oklahoma
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Posted 11/14/08 , edited 11/14/08

InZanity1254 wrote:


revolutionofone wrote:


InZanity1254 wrote:


Xeqtrr123 wrote:

Wish I could but I only have a Mazda 6 FWD ftl :/


well you can still power slide!
or wait for snow!
haha, i have integra now but am a drifter at heart so in the same boat.

back when i first started driving i had a v6 rwd toyota camry.
didn't take me long to figure out rwd=fun.
after three hours i was going around corners at 60mph with smoke behind me.
really fun!!

then two months later got hit by guy driving without his headlights on at midnight!
thus, fun ended.
but soon i will be back with an rx7(fc)!!


Only one generation of Camry's were ever rwd and it did not have a V6, nor would it have enough power to scoot around corners at 60mph.


myne was a 1991 and it did have a v6 and it was rwd.
look at the 2vz-fe engine http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_VZ_engine#2VZ-FE
159hp isn't that great but its definitely enough.



2VZ-FE 2.5L (87.5mm X 69.5mm): This engine was available for Camry 1988-’91 and the Lexus ES250 1990-’91. The 2VZ-FE is a 2.5L version of the "VZ" family. This motor has Toyota’s twin cam per head set up, hence the "FE" designation.

North America saw this motor introduced on the FWD 1988 Toyota Camry and 1988 Lexus ES250 (which was really a dressed up Camry). Featuring four valves per cylinder; it put out 156 hp @ 5600 rpm and 160 ft.lbs. of torque @ 4400 rpm.

The design of the motor is basic Toyota from the 1980s, with cast iron block, a one-piece main bearing cradle, aluminum heads and a timing belt driving the intake camshafts, which operate bucket lifters with adjusting discs. The buckets and discs are the same ones used in Toyota’s 16-valve A-, S- and M-series.

The connecting rod housing size is the same as Toyota’s S-series four-cylinder engines. In fact, the connecting rods look almost identical to the 3SFE rods. Only by checking the length can one differentiate between the two. The V6 rod is slightly shorter. This 2.5L V6 was replaced by a longer stroke 3.0L (3VZ-FE) for the 1992 model year for the Camry and Lexus ES.


source: http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/2425/toyota_deciphering_engine_applications_2se_3sfe_3sge_3sgte_and_5sfe.aspx

Try again?
331 cr points
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24 / M / colorado
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Posted 11/14/08

revolutionofone wrote:


InZanity1254 wrote:


revolutionofone wrote:


InZanity1254 wrote:


Xeqtrr123 wrote:

Wish I could but I only have a Mazda 6 FWD ftl :/


well you can still power slide!
or wait for snow!
haha, i have integra now but am a drifter at heart so in the same boat.

back when i first started driving i had a v6 rwd toyota camry.
didn't take me long to figure out rwd=fun.
after three hours i was going around corners at 60mph with smoke behind me.
really fun!!

then two months later got hit by guy driving without his headlights on at midnight!
thus, fun ended.
but soon i will be back with an rx7(fc)!!


Only one generation of Camry's were ever rwd and it did not have a V6, nor would it have enough power to scoot around corners at 60mph.


myne was a 1991 and it did have a v6 and it was rwd.
look at the 2vz-fe engine http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_VZ_engine#2VZ-FE
159hp isn't that great but its definitely enough.



2VZ-FE 2.5L (87.5mm X 69.5mm): This engine was available for Camry 1988-’91 and the Lexus ES250 1990-’91. The 2VZ-FE is a 2.5L version of the "VZ" family. This motor has Toyota’s twin cam per head set up, hence the "FE" designation.

North America saw this motor introduced on the FWD 1988 Toyota Camry and 1988 Lexus ES250 (which was really a dressed up Camry). Featuring four valves per cylinder; it put out 156 hp @ 5600 rpm and 160 ft.lbs. of torque @ 4400 rpm.

The design of the motor is basic Toyota from the 1980s, with cast iron block, a one-piece main bearing cradle, aluminum heads and a timing belt driving the intake camshafts, which operate bucket lifters with adjusting discs. The buckets and discs are the same ones used in Toyota’s 16-valve A-, S- and M-series.

The connecting rod housing size is the same as Toyota’s S-series four-cylinder engines. In fact, the connecting rods look almost identical to the 3SFE rods. Only by checking the length can one differentiate between the two. The V6 rod is slightly shorter. This 2.5L V6 was replaced by a longer stroke 3.0L (3VZ-FE) for the 1992 model year for the Camry and Lexus ES.


source: http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/2425/toyota_deciphering_engine_applications_2se_3sfe_3sge_3sgte_and_5sfe.aspx

Try again?


try again with what?
thats a lot of info on it but if you are saying it was not rwd drive it was.
when i went to get emissions they had to use the rear tires on dyno.
is that what you are debating?
or are you saying it isn't enough power?
2759 cr points
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22 / M / {In Your Profile...
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Posted 11/14/08
Drifting is so easy i always drift in the streets it easy 1 go to a speed of 60 or 50 and hold the e break and steer the handel and then press the breaks then dddddriiiiiiiift !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! coool
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