First  Prev  1  2  3  4  Next  Last
2NRS of CrunchyRoll!
850 cr points
Send Message: Send PM GB Post
30 / M / california
Offline
Posted 2/26/08

RossoCorsa wrote:


yangss14 wrote:


RossoCorsa wrote:


lasthope05 wrote:


RossoCorsa wrote:


lasthope05 wrote:


RossoCorsa wrote:


lasthope05 wrote:


RossoCorsa wrote:


lasthope05 wrote:

You guys are ridiculous. Ebay parts are decent. You just have to know how to sort the good ones from the bad ones. A few things that are good on ebay: Intake, Exhaust, Intercoolers, Short shifters, Steering wheels, Strut bars, and Turbos(to an extent). Things you really don't want to buy from ebay is anything to do with fuel. EX: Lines, Injectors, FPR or anything with suspension( Springs, Struts/shocks, and Coilovers.)

Actually the ebay Intercoolers is one of the best "bang for the buck" deals on there.


It all depends on your point of view of something being decent. What guarantee is there that the intake you bought is say, CARB legal? anyone can take a piece of steel plating, stamp a few numbers on it, then TIG weld it to an intake with a cheap metal-to-metal sticker. Although there are some decent people out there, i've seen everything from Bride steering wheels (which have been confirmed by Tees USA that such does not exist) to BOV's that attach to your exhaust (which after a few months from market debut, were finally listed as IMITATION blow off valves).

IMO, if it's not an authorized dealer, i'm not buying. i've seen a few GReddy Airinx intakes going for $30, yet when you see the pix of them, they're either pix of other peoples' cars from google or they're obviously a OBX or APC or POWERADDER aluminum tube with a cheap cone filter on it made to look like airinx style induction.

I've seen random shops sell shady equipment as well, but ebay is just an easier way for some people to just leave with extra money in the pocket.

as for exhausts, 65% of the 'coffee can annoying lawnmower fireball medallion' knockoffs are from ebay, while the remaining 35% are from your local autoparts store.

this is all my opinion though.


People dont exactly care about carb legal modifications. I would rather spend $20 on an ebay intake then $100 a AEM one. $100 for a alunimum pipe and a filter? come on you must be a dumb ass. Get the pipe and a K&N. Your paying for the names really. You just have to be smart about it.

As for exhaust. Its hard to mess them up. All it is, is a pipe with a resonator. Thats what all exhaust systems are. My buddy paided $400 for a HKS HP exhaust and what was it? Hmm.. straight pipe with a resontor(bullet muffler) $80 for parts + $320 for the name...hmmm? The engine mostly dictates the sound of the exhaust and the resonators are the ones that subdue it.


Ebay knock off blowoff valves and are identical in design to its counterpart. Switching to genuine internals makes it perform exactly like the original.

Steering wheels from ebay are know to be good. Does it matter if I it has a fake name. If it performs the way it should then it doesnt.



I've yet to see dyno charts proving the knockoff air intakes to be equals to that of K&N. I'll never hear of anyone gaining more than 5 or 6hp out of just that bolt on alone, but even then, in some cases a pipe and filter merely causes you to be louder and run lean in a/f mix.

as for paying for the names, yes i do side with you on that. however i'm in an industry where the names matter. also, there are subtle differences which the knockoffs will never be able to attain. but to the average enthusiast, it's all pick-and-choose.

as far as the engine dictating sound, that and diameter of piping and overall flow also contribute to that factor. there are also other differences that add on to it.

as far as the ebay bov's, it depends to which counterpart it's being compared to. maybe neuspeed or some other midrange company, but i don't see many knockoff bovs pulling off anything more than mere sound.

and for steering wheels, i take many things into consideration. i'm not going to buy pirated dvds, so obviously fake parts are something i'll avoid when possible.




To the dyno remark. I stated to put an K&N on. We all know that aftermarket intakes only make power by allowing more airflow to enter the engine. All aftermarket intakes allow much more dust and dirt to bypass the filter elements then an OEM filter(Fact). If you are seeing a leaner mixture then you know that the product is doing its job as a leaner mixture means more airflow.


BOV's: The only knock offs that truely matter is the Tial knock offs. (Tials are the best flowing bov's on the market.) Design of the Tial and Greddy are nearly identical and the genuine diaphragms fit perfectly.

Its true I am not one to buy priated dvds but to be smart about buying you need to know what you are paying for and understand that product and what its functions are.


Certain intakes make use of any adaptations such as use of the stock MAF/VAF so that it can increase airflow without drastically affecting the mixture settings, and in the case it does, a simple ecu reflash would suffice. also, once again just my opinion, but i highly doubt all filters are created equally in terms of allowance in count of particle microns as well as type of piping.

Some cars you can just bolt a pipe to, while others involve cutting and added sectioning for other hose leads/nipples for proper feed.

and to the bovs, i'm just a hardcore HKS SSQV and SARD user. as for tials being the best flowing bovs, it's more than just flow that needs to be considered in overall form and function.

I understand what i'm paying for and what the functions are, and in the event i don't, i will definitely ask in a forum whether it be this one or one specifically catering to my car in question.

but being smart doesn't necessarily mean buying stuff you know is fake. a bride steering wheel is usually a low quality composite from a random website made of thin aluminum with pleather or other random material over it, with a fake horn button with impropper horn/ground wiring covering. by labelling it as a bride wheel, i've seen them on ebay retailing around $140.

for that same price i could go momo, personal, or nardi. and, i wouldn't have a steering wheel i know isn't the real deal on my hands.

this all leads back to pirated dvds, but this time, would you still buy them if they were in similar quality to the originals?

again this is all solely my opinion as i'm the kind of guy who gets more out of putting on authentic and high-dollar mostly-name parts as opposed to the functional yet decent priced ones. there are gems out there as well as ways to get the most bang for your buck even from places like ebay. but the high dollar in terms of tuning parts comes from long hours of engineering to get you that best bang for your buck.


Of course, I agree with you 100% Im one to put authentic parts on my car also but Im just stating that this is a route to goto if you are having trouble with funds and have to go the ebay route.

But there are things I cannot justify buying is an expensive exhaust systems/down pipes and intakes compared to AEM/HKS.

Just think smart about what you are buying.


that part wasn't clear in your previous statements (in regards to going ebay route when funds are low). i'm glad that was cleared up.

and as for exhaust systems and down pipes and intakes, some down pipes from companies like Pacesetter is basically you ASKING to have your car blow up. I don't mind buying parts that are mid range in quality but never would i think that cheaper = better. and for exhausts, i go for ones that are of bigger diameter, better catalytic converters and are mandrel-bent steel as opposed to other metal composites and crush-bends.

I do think smart when i make my purchases, but i do research on user feedback as well as dyno runs. you'll never see me purchase anything ARC (c'mon a $800 intake and a $1300 turbo pipe that is so big you need a battery relocation kit? lol. ARC may be a great company but they're famous for more bling over engineering.)



yep ype true words, arc is alllll bling (yes its also very good quality) but honestly there is no point in buying stupid expensive things like that


I find it amusing when i see an arc part that looks nice with the whole bling feel to its titanium workmanship, but honestly... their own ARC/Monstersport time attack evo no longer uses the chargepipe that was one of ARC's moneymaker bling items. Monstersport had 'em take it out for their own version, and honestly i'd trust Monster and Tomei Engineering over ARC anyday.




yepp tomei is pretty cool actually lol, i got couple tomei parts..and an arc shiftknob...lol
1879 cr points
Send Message: Send PM GB Post
30 / M / California
Offline
Posted 2/26/08

yangss14 wrote:


RossoCorsa wrote:


yangss14 wrote:


RossoCorsa wrote:


lasthope05 wrote:


RossoCorsa wrote:


lasthope05 wrote:


RossoCorsa wrote:


lasthope05 wrote:


RossoCorsa wrote:


lasthope05 wrote:

You guys are ridiculous. Ebay parts are decent. You just have to know how to sort the good ones from the bad ones. A few things that are good on ebay: Intake, Exhaust, Intercoolers, Short shifters, Steering wheels, Strut bars, and Turbos(to an extent). Things you really don't want to buy from ebay is anything to do with fuel. EX: Lines, Injectors, FPR or anything with suspension( Springs, Struts/shocks, and Coilovers.)

Actually the ebay Intercoolers is one of the best "bang for the buck" deals on there.


It all depends on your point of view of something being decent. What guarantee is there that the intake you bought is say, CARB legal? anyone can take a piece of steel plating, stamp a few numbers on it, then TIG weld it to an intake with a cheap metal-to-metal sticker. Although there are some decent people out there, i've seen everything from Bride steering wheels (which have been confirmed by Tees USA that such does not exist) to BOV's that attach to your exhaust (which after a few months from market debut, were finally listed as IMITATION blow off valves).

IMO, if it's not an authorized dealer, i'm not buying. i've seen a few GReddy Airinx intakes going for $30, yet when you see the pix of them, they're either pix of other peoples' cars from google or they're obviously a OBX or APC or POWERADDER aluminum tube with a cheap cone filter on it made to look like airinx style induction.

I've seen random shops sell shady equipment as well, but ebay is just an easier way for some people to just leave with extra money in the pocket.

as for exhausts, 65% of the 'coffee can annoying lawnmower fireball medallion' knockoffs are from ebay, while the remaining 35% are from your local autoparts store.

this is all my opinion though.


People dont exactly care about carb legal modifications. I would rather spend $20 on an ebay intake then $100 a AEM one. $100 for a alunimum pipe and a filter? come on you must be a dumb ass. Get the pipe and a K&N. Your paying for the names really. You just have to be smart about it.

As for exhaust. Its hard to mess them up. All it is, is a pipe with a resonator. Thats what all exhaust systems are. My buddy paided $400 for a HKS HP exhaust and what was it? Hmm.. straight pipe with a resontor(bullet muffler) $80 for parts + $320 for the name...hmmm? The engine mostly dictates the sound of the exhaust and the resonators are the ones that subdue it.


Ebay knock off blowoff valves and are identical in design to its counterpart. Switching to genuine internals makes it perform exactly like the original.

Steering wheels from ebay are know to be good. Does it matter if I it has a fake name. If it performs the way it should then it doesnt.



I've yet to see dyno charts proving the knockoff air intakes to be equals to that of K&N. I'll never hear of anyone gaining more than 5 or 6hp out of just that bolt on alone, but even then, in some cases a pipe and filter merely causes you to be louder and run lean in a/f mix.

as for paying for the names, yes i do side with you on that. however i'm in an industry where the names matter. also, there are subtle differences which the knockoffs will never be able to attain. but to the average enthusiast, it's all pick-and-choose.

as far as the engine dictating sound, that and diameter of piping and overall flow also contribute to that factor. there are also other differences that add on to it.

as far as the ebay bov's, it depends to which counterpart it's being compared to. maybe neuspeed or some other midrange company, but i don't see many knockoff bovs pulling off anything more than mere sound.

and for steering wheels, i take many things into consideration. i'm not going to buy pirated dvds, so obviously fake parts are something i'll avoid when possible.




To the dyno remark. I stated to put an K&N on. We all know that aftermarket intakes only make power by allowing more airflow to enter the engine. All aftermarket intakes allow much more dust and dirt to bypass the filter elements then an OEM filter(Fact). If you are seeing a leaner mixture then you know that the product is doing its job as a leaner mixture means more airflow.


BOV's: The only knock offs that truely matter is the Tial knock offs. (Tials are the best flowing bov's on the market.) Design of the Tial and Greddy are nearly identical and the genuine diaphragms fit perfectly.

Its true I am not one to buy priated dvds but to be smart about buying you need to know what you are paying for and understand that product and what its functions are.


Certain intakes make use of any adaptations such as use of the stock MAF/VAF so that it can increase airflow without drastically affecting the mixture settings, and in the case it does, a simple ecu reflash would suffice. also, once again just my opinion, but i highly doubt all filters are created equally in terms of allowance in count of particle microns as well as type of piping.

Some cars you can just bolt a pipe to, while others involve cutting and added sectioning for other hose leads/nipples for proper feed.

and to the bovs, i'm just a hardcore HKS SSQV and SARD user. as for tials being the best flowing bovs, it's more than just flow that needs to be considered in overall form and function.

I understand what i'm paying for and what the functions are, and in the event i don't, i will definitely ask in a forum whether it be this one or one specifically catering to my car in question.

but being smart doesn't necessarily mean buying stuff you know is fake. a bride steering wheel is usually a low quality composite from a random website made of thin aluminum with pleather or other random material over it, with a fake horn button with impropper horn/ground wiring covering. by labelling it as a bride wheel, i've seen them on ebay retailing around $140.

for that same price i could go momo, personal, or nardi. and, i wouldn't have a steering wheel i know isn't the real deal on my hands.

this all leads back to pirated dvds, but this time, would you still buy them if they were in similar quality to the originals?

again this is all solely my opinion as i'm the kind of guy who gets more out of putting on authentic and high-dollar mostly-name parts as opposed to the functional yet decent priced ones. there are gems out there as well as ways to get the most bang for your buck even from places like ebay. but the high dollar in terms of tuning parts comes from long hours of engineering to get you that best bang for your buck.


Of course, I agree with you 100% Im one to put authentic parts on my car also but Im just stating that this is a route to goto if you are having trouble with funds and have to go the ebay route.

But there are things I cannot justify buying is an expensive exhaust systems/down pipes and intakes compared to AEM/HKS.

Just think smart about what you are buying.


that part wasn't clear in your previous statements (in regards to going ebay route when funds are low). i'm glad that was cleared up.

and as for exhaust systems and down pipes and intakes, some down pipes from companies like Pacesetter is basically you ASKING to have your car blow up. I don't mind buying parts that are mid range in quality but never would i think that cheaper = better. and for exhausts, i go for ones that are of bigger diameter, better catalytic converters and are mandrel-bent steel as opposed to other metal composites and crush-bends.

I do think smart when i make my purchases, but i do research on user feedback as well as dyno runs. you'll never see me purchase anything ARC (c'mon a $800 intake and a $1300 turbo pipe that is so big you need a battery relocation kit? lol. ARC may be a great company but they're famous for more bling over engineering.)



yep ype true words, arc is alllll bling (yes its also very good quality) but honestly there is no point in buying stupid expensive things like that


I find it amusing when i see an arc part that looks nice with the whole bling feel to its titanium workmanship, but honestly... their own ARC/Monstersport time attack evo no longer uses the chargepipe that was one of ARC's moneymaker bling items. Monstersport had 'em take it out for their own version, and honestly i'd trust Monster and Tomei Engineering over ARC anyday.




yepp tomei is pretty cool actually lol, i got couple tomei parts..and an arc shiftknob...lol


i'm currently after the 2.3L stroker kits. they don't make as much overall hp gains like the 2.2 kits, but they make a great deal more torque. lol i just have a cheap lil' razo shift knob. the arc one is nice, but last i checked even at discount they were about $50~60ish.
18215 cr points
Send Message: Send PM GB Post
L.A.
Offline
Posted 2/26/08
Nothing wrong with Razo knobs anyway. Only issue is that it's advisable to stick with their model-specific ones, rather than the ones with switchable inserts, which tend to rattle. I've got a shiny heavyweight ball knob in my MR2, it's perfect for the car and the finish and fit leave nothing to be desired.

I've got a Trust in the Subaru, though, only because it's a completely solid, one-piece, knob, and is model-specific, so it even has the lip on the bottom for the shift boot to click onto.
1879 cr points
Send Message: Send PM GB Post
30 / M / California
Offline
Posted 2/26/08

Max_Archer wrote:

Nothing wrong with Razo knobs anyway. Only issue is that it's advisable to stick with their model-specific ones, rather than the ones with switchable inserts, which tend to rattle. I've got a shiny heavyweight ball knob in my MR2, it's perfect for the car and the finish and fit leave nothing to be desired.

I've got a Trust in the Subaru, though, only because it's a completely solid, one-piece, knob, and is model-specific, so it even has the lip on the bottom for the shift boot to click onto.


depends on which razo knob you have. mine is one of their autoluxury lines and it's already broke on me somewhere. it just spins and isn't coming off. and, i don't have any spare change at the moment so no point in getting another one just yet... so it's covered with black ductape lol.

and yes model-specific ftw.
1108 cr points
Send Message: Send PM GB Post
M
Offline
Posted 2/26/08

RossoCorsa wrote:

i'm currently after the 2.3L stroker kits. they don't make as much overall hp gains like the 2.2 kits, but they make a great deal more torque. lol i just have a cheap lil' razo shift knob. the arc one is nice, but last i checked even at discount they were about $50~60ish.


What car/eninge do you have? Wanting a 2.2 or 2.3 stroker.
1879 cr points
Send Message: Send PM GB Post
30 / M / California
Offline
Posted 2/26/08

lasthope05 wrote:


RossoCorsa wrote:

i'm currently after the 2.3L stroker kits. they don't make as much overall hp gains like the 2.2 kits, but they make a great deal more torque. lol i just have a cheap lil' razo shift knob. the arc one is nice, but last i checked even at discount they were about $50~60ish.


What car/eninge do you have? Wanting a 2.2 or 2.3 stroker.

right now my DD is a 91 mazda gtx, but the car i'm trying to build is a bone stock 03 Evo RS on bricks.
1108 cr points
Send Message: Send PM GB Post
M
Offline
Posted 2/26/08
Oh. If you are building a 4g motor do you have to stock evo motor already? If not why not opt for a galant 4g64 block so you can have a 2.4 and the JAM stroker kit is only less then $2500, including crank and forged internals, bearings and BS eliminator.
1879 cr points
Send Message: Send PM GB Post
30 / M / California
Offline
Posted 2/26/08

lasthope05 wrote:

Oh. If you are building a 4g motor do you have to stock evo motor already? If not why not opt for a galant 4g64 block so you can have a 2.4 and the JAM stroker kit is only less then $2500, including crank and forged internals, bearings and BS eliminator.


yes the stock motor is in there. and when you talk about the galant, do you mean the 91-92 VR4's?
1108 cr points
Send Message: Send PM GB Post
M
Offline
Posted 2/26/08
No I mean the newer galants from 99-up. They share the same configuration of the eclipse 00-up and evos.
1879 cr points
Send Message: Send PM GB Post
30 / M / California
Offline
Posted 2/26/08
i don't know if that'd work since the 00 eclipse's configurations are more towards the mivec 9 evos and not the evo 8s.

i just haven't done enough research to go frankenstein on anything.
1108 cr points
Send Message: Send PM GB Post
M
Offline
Posted 2/26/08
People do it all the time. The mivec system is in the head not the block. You are essentially using only the galant/eclipse bottem end and the evo's head. The galants 4g64 will give you the 2.4l of displacement and the the evo head will give you the flow.

Its been done numerious times with all the different types of 4g motors.
1879 cr points
Send Message: Send PM GB Post
30 / M / California
Offline
Posted 2/26/08
thanks. i'm still learning on the evo segment.
3498 cr points
Send Message: Send PM GB Post
M / Nowheresville, MI
Offline
Posted 2/26/08
I've had great success buying on ebay. Hell, I wouldn't be as far as I am on my current toy without ebay. I pay alot of attention to sellers feedback and I ask alot of questions if the auction listing is vauge, as most are. The biggest score lately is a complete Hurst super shifter, in perfect condition, for $170 incl. shipping. This item goes for $400 from online speed shops.
Posted 2/27/08
ebay....it depends on the parts and if your not a dum fuck that will buy some cheap shit, what i mean if u see a intercooler kit for $25.00...that right there is a stop sign that u should NOT buy it, thats just me..but ma bud bough a turbo from ebay, and yet he has no problems ...but like i said it depends on the parts and the person whos buying them is not retorted
First  Prev  1  2  3  4  Next  Last
You must be logged in to post.