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Should you switch cars?
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25 / M / Canada
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Posted 2/1/08
Well, I looked into a few bunch of ads, found some SR5's but I didn't really wanted drum brakes on the rear...
I guess I could look into other cars, but for some reason I like the 88, out of all the corollas that used the A - engine. But... if I am going to get it... insurance for the car might be a bit more... including new parts to replace worn/old ones. And since I'm pretty sure there isn't a lot of parts for it, I'd probably going to have to import some stuff from Japan, making it even more expensive... including a huge overhaul of the engine, probably a new drive train and differential... new axles... (Geez, it's gonna be a pain to get all these...), new muffler?, definitely a new stereo( don't got tapes), suspension, transaxle (maybe..depending on wear, probably will), security system, redo all alignments, a whole bunch of new clutch parts(if needed), a new flywheel, transmission, and probably some little bits I missed out on, battery?, spark plugs, distributer(I think it has one...), new or used alternator probably, air intake, filter, oil filter, and all that tid bit stuff.. who knows the owner might of changed them already... Oh well I will try to see the car when I get a chance...

EDIT: Now that I re-read my post... it's gonna be hella expensive to restore the car... I don't think I'm gonna do an overhaul and probably try and find a decent 4A-GE 20V... Damn it's gonna be expensive IF I do get it...
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27 / M / Chicago
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Posted 2/1/08
I currently have a 2007 MB CLK550 since it's my graduation gift, and I'm not trading that it yet. I'm not switching cars but probably am getting the LanEvo X when the kinks are fixed and the prices are dropped. Dealer's markup are gay especially in the Midwest.
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25 / M / Canada
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Posted 2/1/08
yeah, they are pretty gay, I've seen some very old cars about pre1980's still going at 1000-50K. Some are very well maintained and well some are just plain hunk a junks which would be better off at a junk-yard. which I might also get some parts from...
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26 / M
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Posted 2/1/08
is that the fwd ones? they handled well, the early ones, but I would save my monies for better cars.
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F / Egypt
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Posted 2/2/08
yes , if i cound bring one better
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21 / F / My body lives in...
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Posted 3/19/08
at that price-- check the condition of the car. it should have good paint with no rust (check paint job if applicable- was it done the proper way).... and nothing to fix- not even to change any suspension and shock. an old car with 200k km milage might not be the right reading.... check engine sound and it should not pump oil and no leaks....with good maintainance an average engine will be due for ovehaul after it has registered 300k-400k km reading. and yes -insurance check must be done. freshner? are the carpets and covers fine?
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35 / F / Norfolk, VA
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Posted 3/19/08
That price is insane. I just paid 1800 for a turbo Eclipse, 95 with the same mileage. Do you just want it as a daily? Because if thats the case, there is no point in putting that much effort into a rebuild. It would be best to get a decent reliable car and not put too much stress into it, and save for a car you want to race or drift. Then put the effort into that one.
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21 / F / My body lives in...
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Posted 3/19/08

TEAMSpiceMishy wrote:

That price is insane. I just paid 1800 for a turbo Eclipse, 95 with the same mileage. Do you just want it as a daily? Because if thats the case, there is no point in putting that much effort into a rebuild. It would be best to get a decent reliable car and not put too much stress into it, and save for a car you want to race or drift. Then put the effort into that one.


nice alternative
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35 / F / Norfolk, VA
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Posted 3/19/08
Sorry, I didn't see the Op was in Canada. Need to learn to read. That car is averaging 125k miles but the price is still steep. I could only imagine paying that much if it was Hachi-Roku and dedicated solely to drifting. I would And even then there would be conditions. Well maintained, limited to no rust, etc.
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27 / M / Oklahoma
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Posted 3/19/08
86s, thanks to Initial D and D1GP/Formula D, cost more than they should. And I mean that srsly.

Unless you absolutely want that car, don't buy it. If you have the patience to put money into it, then buy it. My teacher has been slowly putting money into his 68 Mustang which he has had since he was 16.
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29 / M / California
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Posted 3/19/08
My friend just sold his 86 for $4000. but it has ITBs and an AE111 20-valve swap with receipts.

Average price of AE86 right now just bone stock is around $2k in Cali, more modified ones going into the $6k range.

problem is, even tricked out cars may have been mickey-moused here and there, so if you buy a modified car, you'll probably want to change up the paintjob. mediablasting the whole shell would be a plus, since then you could see if any panels were made purely of bondo (happened with an old RX7 i used to have, half quarter panel was fiberglass with a gallon of bondo over it).

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26 / M
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Posted 3/19/08
im gonna switch my car right now i have a 300zx but its not a tt and i going to convert it but thats like 8-9k to get it done because i dont have the experience to do it myself. So ima get my moms saab 9-3 in a few years cause she wants a merc and ill use that till i can save up enough to convert my z because unless it turns out to be better i dont wanna sell my N/A for a TT. I was lookin to see if there was any other way to get more hp from the engine i already have but i didnt really see anything else other than a single turbo(looks more confusing than a swap) and i was wondering about a supercharger not a
vein style
but a centrifugal style
its like a belt driven turbo and it would take less room than a turbo the only thing is that i havent actually seen it done before so i can be sure of how much it would cost...any thoughts ideas?
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M
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Posted 3/19/08
Whats wrong with a single turbo? Single turbos are better than a twin. And a centrifical supercharger is pretty much like a turbo setup that leaches power. Its not instant power like a roots but builds boost as rpm rises.
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26 / M
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Posted 3/19/08
well all the single tubo setups i have seen looked really complicated and ive been told that they cost almost as much as a twin but to make the same hp you need like rather large turbo and then that would have more lag than a twin(i think). plus a twin turbo is alot more common so im guessing that it would be easyier to do because the stuff you need to do it is more avaliable.
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M
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Posted 3/19/08
There would really be even much noticable lag. When you run a single turbo you want to run a larger one anyway. Instead of 3 cylinders feeding a small turbo you will have all 6 feeding a medium sized one. It is all depend of now much power you want to run and your desired boost levels. Of course you will need a bigger turbo when you go single. The biggest advantage of having a single turbo is much more power outout at lower boost levels. But since there is already a TT VQ out there you can just buy all the stock stuff from the TT and just switch out pistons and rods. But you said your not mechanically inclined so it wont be an option for you.
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