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Posted 2/4/17 , edited 2/4/17

AnimeAddictANN69 wrote:
as long someone else is driving you will be ok staying in the car ?

there are plenty service available lyft, uber, etc.. but it's kind of a hassle and expensive though..

it's hard not having a car or being able to drive yourself around here..


Yeah, I'm perfectly fine as long as someone else is doing the driving. I'm not afraid of vehicles, just controlling one.

Uber and Lyft are expensive, and I don't really trust strangers to drive me. Relying on my family means I don't get out but maybe a couple times a week, but I'm okay with that. Not much to do where I live anyways. Might as well be in the middle of nowhere as far as Michigan goes. :T
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Posted 2/5/17

Selenae wrote:



Yeah, I'm perfectly fine as long as someone else is doing the driving. I'm not afraid of vehicles, just controlling one.

Uber and Lyft are expensive,
and I don't really trust strangers to drive me. Relying on my family means I don't get out but maybe a couple times a week, but I'm okay with that. Not much to do where I live anyways. Might as well be in the middle of nowhere as far as Michigan goes. :T


they are cheaper than taxi though..

i think there are free transportation service available in the community that you can use.

i heard some insurance companies will also provide transportation for their members-- like doctor visits or grocery shopping
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Posted 3/14/17 , edited 3/14/17
This is more of a car maintenance question than repairs... never use synthetic oil before so i don't know about this

the dealer told me to use synthetic oil in my new 2017 mazda 3. I checked the manual to confirm the informaiton

0W-20 -- recommended brand is Castrol but didn't say anything about having to be synthetic


0W-20 Castrol conventional vs synthetic

wal-mart has the cheapest oil among the retailers that i checked

it's a lot cheaper buying them in 5 qt container than 1 qt

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Castrol-Edge-Syntec-Full-Synthetic-0W-20-Motor-Oil-5-Quart/35931147






also it's ok to use 0W-40 if you want right ? will it cause any engine problem or mpg ?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Castrol-Edge-Strength-for-Maximum-Protection-0W40-Motor-Oil-5-Quart/35931146


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Posted 3/14/17

dulun18 wrote:

This is more of a car maintenance question than repairs... never use synthetic oil before so i don't know about this

the dealer told me to use synthetic oil in my new 2017 mazda 3. I checked the manual to confirm the informaiton

0W-20 -- recommended brand is Castrol but didn't say anything about having to be synthetic


0W-20 Castrol conventional vs synthetic

wal-mart has the cheapest oil among the retailers that i checked

it's a lot cheaper buying them in 5 qt container than 1 qt

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Castrol-Edge-Syntec-Full-Synthetic-0W-20-Motor-Oil-5-Quart/35931147






also it's ok to use 0W-40 if you want right ? will it cause any engine problem or mpg ?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Castrol-Edge-Strength-for-Maximum-Protection-0W40-Motor-Oil-5-Quart/35931146




wow okay.
first question, synthetic oil recommended?
well, yes. in general "synthetic" oil is better. but in general its a waste of money unless you plan on keeping you car for past 150k miles.
oil doesnt work good when cold, and synthetic does a better job when its cold, and when the oil is too hot.
tho really, if you stick to 3000 mile oil changes, your good.
1986 chevy sprint recommended 5000 mile oil changes, 30 years ago before synthtic oils.

second, brands. yes brands do matter. i usualy stick to mobile one. i go 5000 to 8000 miles between changes. if i use walmart brand, i go 2000. you get what you pay for.

thrid, 0w40 in a car that says 0w20? no. bad idea. the first number "0w" is how thick the oil is cold. the second number "20" is hot thick when its warm. now you could put 0w40 in, but its puts strain on the oil pump, and the oil pressure is higher.
so unless you racing, or spending minutes at 6000 rpm, just put what the manual says.

fourth, the 0w40 oil is thicker, so you will lose MPG. slightly.

and dont buy fram oil filters. i stick with bosch. i had a fram fail at 90 psi. most cars when cold will get oil pressure in the 70 range. the bosch didnt fail even at 150 psi.
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Posted 3/14/17
dulun18, synthetic oil is the way I like to go also and for a brand that is recommend that isn't super expensive would also be Mobil 1. I myself use Royal purple oil and filters in my car but I also don't mind spending a little bit more money on my baby (I swear I sometimes take better care of my car than myself lol). I'd also recommend an oil filter with a nut welded on the top like the K&N ones as their easier to remove with a wrench. Did you get the hatchback or sedan? Please be the hatchback, I love hatchbacks lol. Not gonna lie though I liked the look of the last ten Mazda 3's a little more the hatchback looked a little more aggressive if that makes any sense. Kinda like an STi Hatchback.
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Posted 3/14/17 , edited 3/14/17

nemoskull wrote:

wow okay.
first question, synthetic oil recommended?
well, yes. in general "synthetic" oil is better. but in general its a waste of money unless you plan on keeping you car for past 150k miles.
oil doesnt work good when cold, and synthetic does a better job when its cold, and when the oil is too hot.
tho really, if you stick to 3000 mile oil changes, your good.
1986 chevy sprint recommended 5000 mile oil changes, 30 years ago before synthtic oils.

second, brands. yes brands do matter. i usualy stick to mobile one. i go 5000 to 8000 miles between changes. if i use walmart brand, i go 2000. you get what you pay for.

thrid, 0w40 in a car that says 0w20? no. bad idea. the first number "0w" is how thick the oil is cold. the second number "20" is hot thick when its warm. now you could put 0w40 in, but its puts strain on the oil pump, and the oil pressure is higher.
so unless you racing, or spending minutes at 6000 rpm, just put what the manual says.

fourth, the 0w40 oil is thicker, so you will lose MPG. slightly.

and dont buy fram oil filters. i stick with bosch. i had a fram fail at 90 psi. most cars when cold will get oil pressure in the 70 range. the bosch didnt fail even at 150 psi.


for new cars-- synthetic oil will help fuel economy (or so they say) 2-3 mpg

i only use 3000 mile oil change for my 20-ish year old car.. the 2009 toyota is going by the 4500-5000 mile

i'm using Chevron Supreme 5W-30 (bought from costco) for both of the older cars

I agree that changing the oil every 3000 miles will help the car last longer.. but it's a waste of money imo.. since it's a bit too frequent

i didn't know Wal-mart has their own oil brand.. which one are you talking about ?


i think the reason the 5 quart is cheaper is probably because it's just 1 container.. instead of 6 containers in some fancy box..

i checked the same oil brand across multiple retailers (online) got pictures from costco and wal-mart

Mobil 1 and castrol with various stores (costco, amazon, orielty, autozone, wal-mart)

it's more expensive at the auto parts store-- so the best place to buy would e wal-mart. in 5 qt container

costco stated that they will carry this in store soon.. but no exact time was given. it will still be pricer than what you can get at wal-mart
https://www.costco.com/Mobil-1-Advanced-Fuel-Economy-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-0W-20.product.100169812.html





thanks. i think i'll just stick with what they recommended in the manual then 0W-20 castrol oil.. i'll also buy synthetic like they told me to. I think it's more for MPG than engine wear

for filter i'll go with mobile one M1- 108 extended performance filter





j226109 wrote:

dulun18, synthetic oil is the way I like to go also and for a brand that is recommend that isn't super expensive would also be Mobil 1. I myself use Royal purple oil and filters in my car but I also don't mind spending a little bit more money on my baby (I swear I sometimes take better care of my car than myself lol). I'd also recommend an oil filter with a nut welded on the top like the K&N ones as their easier to remove with a wrench. Did you get the hatchback or sedan? Please be the hatchback, I love hatchbacks lol. Not gonna lie though I liked the look of the last ten Mazda 3's a little more the hatchback looked a little more aggressive if that makes any sense. Kinda like an STi Hatchback.



yes. it is a hatchback i like want the extra trunk space for my home improvement stuff.. i might need to upgrade to the CX-5 in the future



i guess my car is new.. so the only oil filter that will fit is the Mobil 1 atm

it's $15 each.. but $22 for 2..

https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-M1-108-Extended-Performance-Filter/dp/B000CIR490/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Mazda%7C80&Model=3%7C2435&Year=2017%7C2017&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive

the dealer told me to come in for service instead of doing it myself :/ since it could void my warranty.. blah..blah..

i think they will charge $80 just to change the oil (if using synthetic)

i'm using their recommended brand and grade. i'll keep the receipt/record just in case but i want to do it myself

$23 for 5 qt of castrol synthetic oil + $11 for mobile 1 filter $33+ tax for 5000 miles oil change interval (severe condition)

looking through the schedule maintenance-- the transmission is not on the list anymore... coolant change every 10 year ?

wow. you don't need to do a lot of maintenance with new cars-- but from the look of it if something goes wrong you have to take it to the dealer--



by bet is on the Push-start button-- i heard the module for the thing is 650 bucks and you can't change it yourself since the code is only given to the dealers or a bonded locksmith!!






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Posted 3/14/17
Whatever you do, you'd be ahead as long as you don't buy extended warranty for your car


I did because I was stupid. Don't make that mistake.


I usually just bring it to a shop that I trust.
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Posted 3/14/17 , edited 3/14/17

nanikore2 wrote:

Whatever you do, you'd be ahead as long as you don't buy extended warranty for your car

I did because I was stupid. Don't make that mistake.

I usually just bring it to a shop that I trust.



they were trying to sell me a $2879 extended warranty and $895 GAP insurance etc..

the circled ones are the recommended ones..

there's deductible for when you need to use the service.. this is like dealing with insurance..




the car has a 3 year warranty.. I could invest that $2500 for those 3 year so when the car broke down i can use the money i earned to fix it

if you can do it yourself the price is a lot cheaper.. i would say 40-70% less than what they dealer will charge

i can't find the other article.. but from the chart you can see cars are getting more reliable.. so selling services that most car owners will not use is how they will make the most profits from selling a car.

the finance department of the dealership-- they can sweet talk you into paying a few grands for things that are not needed.. just keep those few grands in your own bank account instead

http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/2012/04/reliability-histories/index.htm



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Posted 3/14/17

dulun18 wrote:




Yeah, warranties are pretty much scams. Repair bills are almost always the smaller bill of the two.

I agree that DIY is cheaper but I don't work on cars........
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Posted 3/14/17

nanikore2 wrote:

Yeah, warranties are pretty much scams. Repair bills are almost always the smaller bill of the two.

I agree that DIY is cheaper but I don't work on cars........


i was the same as you back then

but having 4-5 cars in this house (all used) that need constant fixing.. i bought a repair manual from Autozone ($20)

get a 2 ton jack+stands for $20 + basic tool kit ($30?) + oil filter wrench ($10?)

you can change your own oil at home

if you are using conventional oil then the saving is not as great.. but when switching to synthetic

$80 at the dealer vs $34 (DIY) x 4-5 cars.. =

I think the owner manual has basic car maintenance section as well
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Posted 3/15/17 , edited 3/15/17

dulun18 wrote:
i didn't know Wal-mart has their own oil brand.. which one are you talking about ?


Castrol is not a Wal-mart oil brand

Wal-mart is just one of the retailers who have Castrol oil for sale that is all

If you want .. you can go to the auto parts store and pay $10 a qt for it or $7-ish at wal-mart or $23 or 5 qt container

you get what you paid for-- $10 for a qt or $4.6 for qt of the same brand and grade oil (Castrol 0W-20 full synthetic oil). There are people out there thinking that paying more for the same thing means they are getting better product

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/CAS1/EDGE020/N1185.oap?ck=Search_N1185_CAS_-1_-1&mc=CAS&mn=Castrol&pt=N1185&ppt=C0252
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Posted 3/15/17
I will buy my first car in July (or something like that) but I can do any repairs myself. Fixing cars is not complicated but it might take time.
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Posted 3/16/17 , edited 3/16/17

AnimeAddictANN69 wrote:

Castrol is not a Wal-mart oil brand

Wal-mart is just one of the retailers who have Castrol oil for sale that is all

If you want .. you can go to the auto parts store and pay $10 a qt for it or $7-ish at wal-mart or $23 or 5 qt container

you get what you paid for-- $10 for a qt or $4.6 for qt of the same brand and grade oil (Castrol 0W-20 full synthetic oil). There are people out there thinking that paying more for the same thing means they are getting better product

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/CAS1/EDGE020/N1185.oap?ck=Search_N1185_CAS_-1_-1&mc=CAS&mn=Castrol&pt=N1185&ppt=C0252



oil is oil--

amazon has the same brand and also have in 3 pack box-- price wise buying the 5 qt container is still cheaper

https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-03124-0W-20-Synthetic-Motor/dp/B00JGQLZJ4?th=1
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Castrol-Edge-0w20-Motor-Oil-5-qt-3-Pack/44580694

https://mobiloil.com/en/oil-filters/performance-oil-filters


with filter the car will need 4.4 qts-- so 5qt is plenty (will have some left over)

the oil change frequency is now 5000 miles (severe condition)- 7500 miles (flexible)-- cars are more maintenance free now a day

If everything are going well i'll just buy a new car every 3-4 years so i don't have to deal with the problems of used cars

http://www.consumerreports.org/car-maintenance/10-old-car-red-flags/



martin12165 wrote:

I will buy my first car in July (or something like that) but I can do any repairs myself. Fixing cars is not complicated but it might take time.


if you can wait.. the last few days of the year is the best time to buy a car

if not.. buy the car around the end of the current month -- look up customer incentives and compare prices before heading in

the dealer will tell you that if you are doing your own maintenance on the new car then your warranty will be void.. but the owner manual stated that if you know what you are doing, using recommended parts in the the manual and keep records of it.. you will be fine

the owner manual didn't say anything about synthetic oil either..

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Posted 3/16/17

dulun18 wrote:

This is more of a car maintenance question than repairs... never use synthetic oil before so i don't know about this

the dealer told me to use synthetic oil in my new 2017 mazda 3. I checked the manual to confirm the informaiton

0W-20 -- recommended brand is Castrol but didn't say anything about having to be synthetic


0W-20 Castrol conventional vs synthetic

wal-mart has the cheapest oil among the retailers that i checked

it's a lot cheaper buying them in 5 qt container than 1 qt

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Castrol-Edge-Syntec-Full-Synthetic-0W-20-Motor-Oil-5-Quart/35931147






also it's ok to use 0W-40 if you want right ? will it cause any engine problem or mpg ?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Castrol-Edge-Strength-for-Maximum-Protection-0W40-Motor-Oil-5-Quart/35931146




I have a 2016 Mazda 3 and I also use Full Synthetic oil. I use what the owner's manual recommends. Why go cheap on oil when you bought a new car is what I say.
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Posted 3/16/17 , edited 3/17/17

Khaltazar wrote:



I have a 2016 Mazda 3 and I also use Full Synthetic oil. I use what the owner's manual recommends. Why go cheap on oil when you bought a new car is what I say.


the odd thing is the manual didn't say anything about synthetic oil

just 0W-20 .. Castrol oil brand is recommended. I think the reason the dealer recommended synthetic is probably for the better mileage..

the car also has low rolling resistance tires on.. Bridgestrone ecopia (i think)..

the fight over mpg continues
http://www.consumerreports.org/cars-behind-trump-delay-fuel-economy-standards-autos/

i thought the car has steel wheels with covers.. but for 2016 even the base model got alloy wheels.. 16 in though

Consumer Reports is right.. Mazda cars' cabin noise is loud.. The car is fun to drive though.. for a 155hp the acceleration is pretty quick.. i might be selling/trading the car i just bought for the 2.5L version (if i have extra money).. i'll see if i can sell the car to a private buyer for $18500+ or not around December--

i got a welcome email from Mazda..probably just cut and paste with these emails

Mazda 6 has a quieter cabin ? it's annoying when they are requiring you to get the activsense and gps packages if you want ieloop package.. also heated steering and heated seats? in Arizona ? it's still winter but it's already 96-99 for the past few days...

i don't see why they can't just give the customer the option to pick whatever features and packages they want instead of forcing it..

i think those 18-19 in tires will be pricey to replace..





*update* do you use CarFax or Autocheck when buying a used car?

i was looking at the carfax report provided by the dealer for one of their used cars

what's going on here ?



also.. do low rolling resistance tires are noisy than performance tires ?

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